hero needed RE: Electric cooker

Hi

Just after some clarity please. I have a new circuit that has been put in to allow for an electric cooker, so all is in place there. Stupidly I was expecting the cooker to come with a cable and plug.

I know 6mm2 cable is required, so I need to know if I can buy the 6mm2 twin and earth cable that I have seen at homebase.

Tho other thing I need to know is Where the cooker fits I have on socket with no switch on it and next to it a connection unit with a metal frame over it. does it connect to the connection unit with the metal frame. If so is the socket there for something else.

Sorry for the babbling, but it's causing me much stress, Thanks in advance

Kristy said:

I know 6mm2 cable is required, so I need to know if I can buy the 6mm2 twin and earth cable that I have seen at homebase.

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Yes. You may also want to get some earth sleeving.

Kristy said:

Tho other thing I need to know is Where the cooker fits I have on socket with no switch on it and next to it a connection unit with a metal frame over it. does it connect to the connection unit with the metal frame. If so is the socket there for something else.

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Yes I would think so, and yes this is common.

Beware. Making off 6mm cable tails is not quite as easy as a plug on the flex on an applience, you will need nice sturdy wire cutters and a pair of pliers to get the wire to go where it should. Also be aware that at the currents involved in cooking a bad contact will overheat very quickly, so double check everything is nice shiny metal, and nice and tight BEFORE switching on. (i.e. both look at it and tug it - if it moves or drops out re-do it.)
Some cookers have terminals like giant chock block, so the bared wire end goes into the tunnel and is clamped, while others have a stud with a nut and a washer for each wire these require the wire to be formed into an eye and trapped firmly and uniformly under the nut and washer. (riding on one high strand will not do!)
Care is needed with both types,as the stiff cable tends to make it easy to create a 'tail wags dog' accident. If in any doubt at all check with someone who has already done it.
There should be a cable grip at either or both ends. If there is it should be used, of course, but be sure to grip the cable in its jacket, and don't strip it back so far that the individual cores are under the clamp.
If in doubt ask someone to at least give it a check over before you use it

Thanks for some very useful information,what is the recommendation for the length of cable that should be used

Long enough to be able to clean!! With in reason - 2m probably the average.

The single socket adjacent - is it butted right against the outlet plate??

I have seen this a few times with new builds - never know if it is gas or elec cooker, so fit both. (gas needs socket for ign).

You may find, if they are both in the same box, it easier to disconnect the single socket from the terminals in the outlet plate when you connect the new cable. The single socket may be wired in 2.5, 4 or 6mm - seen all three!

Incidently, for the sparks - 2.5 to the single socket is A OK.....although frowned apon by us all here. Downstream overcurrent.

Kristy said:

Tho other thing I need to know is Where the cooker fits I have on socket with no switch on it and next to it a connection unit with a metal frame over it.

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Are you saying that you don't have a cooker control unit - i.e. nothing with a large switch for cooker on/off?

ban-all-sheds said:

Kristy said:

Tho other thing I need to know is Where the cooker fits I have on socket with no switch on it and next to it a connection unit with a metal frame over it.

Click to expand...

Are you saying that you don't have a cooker control unit - i.e. nothing with a large switch for cooker on/off?

Click to expand...

I took this to mean a CCU feeding a dual box with a cooker outlet plate and a single socket - seen this many times here on new builds where sparky / developer doesn't want hastle!

Yes, Thank you lectrician, what you say makes lots of sense. The builders said they were putting in fittings for a gas cooker. I just didn't know you need the plug socket for gas ignition, but you have cleared up the extra socket confusion. Thanks

many new gas ovens have electronic controls - when you turn the knobs, no gas flows unless there is electricity present for the ignition. If the flame blows out, it tries to re-ignite, but if gas pressure goes, it shuts off completely. Ours even has an electronic timer, which shuts off the oven and grill if you set the right mode on the alarm. It has a case fan too, as its built in. Very sophisticated!

One t5hing I see glaringly missing from this whole topic is POWER RATING.

What is the rating of the new oven Kirsty, many of the modern ones are more than capable of running from a 13A plug and do not require the use of 6mm cable to connect them.

I would suggest that you check the max power rating of the oven. This will be it's rating either is watts (ie: 3500) or kW (ie: 3.5).

If the rating is 3kW (3000w) or below, then it will operate from a plug, however if it is above this, then it will not, but it may still not need 6mm cable.

She said "electric cooker", not "electric oven".....