Changing telephone socket

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Hi as the rest of my sockets and switches are stainless steel, i wanted to have a matching telephone socket. The current socket is the standard White BT master one. It has wires in ports 2, 3 (two in each) 4 and 5. It also has wires in port A and B. The only problem i have is that the new socket only has ports 1-6 and nothing for A or B. Also as its steel, it also has a port for an earth wire but there isnt one. Hope someone can shed some light.

P.s I know most will say that changing the sockets isnt good or "legal" but I will be doing it at my own discretion.
 
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P.s I know most will say that changing the sockets isnt good or "legal" but I will be doing it at my own discretion.

It isn't illegal but it breaks the terms of the contract with BT ( or whichever company you get your telephone service from ). If you break those terms then BT have the right to cancel the contract and leave you without phone service

If there is no A B terminal then the socket is not a Master socket and will almost certainly not operate properly and you may even loose your telephone service. Lose may not be immediately but happen some time in the future when the "joint" of non compatible wire and terminal fails.

If you do not have a master socket then the routine automatic testing of your line will almost certianly report " no NTE found " and put a flag on your records. This will complicate matters if and when you call 150 to report a fault on your line.
 
I have checked and it is a master socket. Which is why I am confused
 
I have checked and it is a master socket. Which is why I am confused

Can you identify it by manufacturer and type number ? Or photos of the insides ?

It may have the components ( bell capacitor, resistor and surge suppressor fitted ) that are essential in a master socket but that does not make it an acceptable NTE ( Network Termination Equipment ).
 
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That is a master socket.

It is acceptable as an NTE but only if the DIY connections are made using a plug that plugs into the socket. DIY connections to the internal terminals invalidate it as a NTE

From just above that picture

This article explains how to wire a UK telephone extension. You are allowed to install extension wiring so long as the connection to the master socket is via a plug, or in the case of the master socket with a detachable lower half, via the connectors on that section. If you decide to connect directly to the master socket or install/replace a master socket you should be aware that you are in breach of your licence to use the phone service and your service provider may charge if they have to come to rectify a fault caused by your efforts (it is rare for them so to do unless you have been really ham fisted).

As well as the call out and repair charges they may decide to terminate the phone service.

If there is a waiting list for phone lines in your area due to a shortage of cables in the area then the chances of a tamperer being disconnected and his line ( but not his number ) given to a new customer are much higher.
 
Take the wires out of A and 2 and put them into "2" on your new socket. Do the same with B and 5 into "5" on your new socket.
 
Only problem is that port 2 already has two wires in it so would it not be hard to add a third?
 
Only problem is that port 2 already has two wires in it so would it not be hard to add a third?

It is possible to reliable connect three CW 1308 standard wires into an IDC connector. The problem is when a larger diameter wire is forced into the connector. This invariable forces the jaws wider and any CW 1308 wires in the connector may then be no longer firmly held by the jaws leading to noisy phone service at best and more interruptions to calls.

IDC = Insulation Displacement Connection otherwise known as punch down connectors
 
So use a 1amp connector / chocolate block to reduce those 3 wires to one and push that wire into the IDC port.
 
So use a 1amp connector / chocolate block to reduce those 3 wires to one and push that wire into the IDC port.

That is seriously BAD advice.

Put it back to what it was before, get it working and then think seriously about what you are doing.
 
Excuse me, but I know exactly what I'm talking about. Using a 1 amp screw connector block to connect those three wires is exactly the same electrically as pushing all three into an IDC and is far more reliable.
 
Excuse me, but I know exactly what I'm talking about. Using a 1 amp screw connector block to connect those three wires is exactly the same electrically as pushing all three into an IDC and is far more reliable.

So you know exactly what causes background noise to be generated in a non gas tight joint. Gas tight in that oxygen from the air cannot oxidise the area of contact between two wires in a terminal. For power cables the small amount of corrosion in a screw connector block is not a problem. For telephone circuits it is a problem due to the fact it can create electrical noise that interferes with conversation.

A correctly used IDC is more reliable than a joint that depends on pressure from a screw. Under pressure the copper wires in a screwed down joint will slowly deform thus reducing the pressure at the contact point. In a correctly install IDC joint there is a small area of contact that is very close to being as reliable as a cold weld. IDC joints are almsot always gas tight at the area of contact and not dependent of pressure being maintained.

By the way I was employed for many years designing telephone equipment and other communication systems for safety critical applications..
 

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