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weapon

Joined: 16 Jun 2007 Posts: 25 Location: Glasgow, United Kingdom
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Posted: Wed May 25, 2011 6:31 pm |
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Taylortwocities

Joined: 27 Jul 2006 Posts: 10613 Location: Oxfordshire, United Kingdom Thanked: 744 times
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Posted: Wed May 25, 2011 7:09 pm |
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Sure, they are all suitable for immersion heaters, that is why they are called "Immersion Heater Timers".
I do not know how good your mother is with technology, but the middle one might be a bit tricky for her to programme. It's OK if you are prepared to go over there to set it up every time....
One thing. You need to leave the switch in place and wire the timer into the cable that goes to the immersion. The switch will need to be left in the ON position but it will be a necessary point of isolation for the immersion and its timer. |
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The following user says thank you to Taylortwocities for this useful post:
weapon (25 May 2011) |
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kai

Joined: 15 Aug 2004 Posts: 1025 Location: United Kingdom Thanked: 35 times
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Posted: Wed May 25, 2011 7:38 pm |
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The third one, i.e. the one with the captive tappets (pins to set the time) is the most suitable, it is simple to understand, and fits neatly on a standard square socket box (flush or surface mount). No loose pins to go missing. |
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weapon

Joined: 16 Jun 2007 Posts: 25 Location: Glasgow, United Kingdom
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Posted: Wed May 25, 2011 9:22 pm |
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autocrazy

Joined: 03 Apr 2012 Posts: 2 Location: West Midlands, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 3:31 pm |
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EFLImpudence

Joined: 07 Jul 2010 Posts: 5174 Location: Dorset, United Kingdom Thanked: 647 times
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Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 3:59 pm |
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| autocrazy wrote: | Also unlike what Taylortwocities mentions, I want to get rid of the switch and substitute for timer - did you do the same?
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It was not a 'mention' - it was /is the correct information.
The switch must be retained and the timer wired to the cable between the switch and the immersion.
In most properties this cable is visible and easily accessible so either timer quoted will be suitable. |
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streetlighter

Joined: 14 Jan 2007 Posts: 770 Location: Cheshire, United Kingdom Thanked: 38 times
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Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 5:49 pm |
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Im sure Smiths Timeguard make a 13a fused connection unit with a built in timer that fits onto a standard 1 gang box. |
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EFLImpudence

Joined: 07 Jul 2010 Posts: 5174 Location: Dorset, United Kingdom Thanked: 647 times
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Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 6:15 pm |
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EFLImpudence

Joined: 07 Jul 2010 Posts: 5174 Location: Dorset, United Kingdom Thanked: 647 times
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Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 6:16 pm |
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duplicate. |
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autocrazy

Joined: 03 Apr 2012 Posts: 2 Location: West Midlands, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 6:39 pm |
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Hi
I have done a lot of reading and find it confusing as to why I should have a seperate switch and a timer.
I am currently considering this timer
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Masterplug-TMIH24-MP-24-Hour-Immersion-Segment/dp/B003XUW0IY/ref=pd_sim_kh_1
I have found the wiring instructions, which no where specifies the need for an additional switch - see attachment.
Perhaps if I can be explained why only a timer shall not suffice. When I do wish to completely switch it off (when on holiday), I just need to pull the segments out to disconnect - isn't it? |
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EFLImpudence

Joined: 07 Jul 2010 Posts: 5174 Location: Dorset, United Kingdom Thanked: 647 times
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Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 7:26 pm |
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| autocrazy wrote: | I have done a lot of reading and find it confusing as to why I should have a seperate switch and a timer.
Perhaps if I can be explained why only a timer shall not suffice. |
he immersion instructions do. See wiring - section 2
http://www.heatraesadia.com/docs/Immersion_-_Issue_3_-_36005868.pdf
| Quote: | | When I do wish to completely switch it off (when on holiday) |
That is the point - the timer will only disconnect the live conductor.
For isolation the neutral must be disconnected as well.
Should a fault occur between neutral and earth switching only the live will not isolate the fault.
If you have RCDs protecting your cabling this could result in half (or all, if only one RCD) of the circuits in the house being disconnected until the fault is isolated by actually removing the wires from the immersion - instead of just switching off.
However, the link above (lead to by streetlighter's post) does show a timer which includes a double pole switch.
Unfortunately it also contains a 13A fuse which, if your immersion is wired conventionally, is unnecessary and in my opinion undesirable. |
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kai

Joined: 15 Aug 2004 Posts: 1025 Location: United Kingdom Thanked: 35 times
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Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:04 am |
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