Ravenheat 820 Diverter Valve Problem

Hey folks,

My boiler is giving me grief. Its a Ravenheat 820 and there is a problem with the hot water supply.

In the shower, with the hot tap turned to full it is ok and I get enough hot water. However, the kitchen tap and bathroom sink tap are not getting hot.

The boiler fires when these are turned on but almost immediately cuts out again.

The boilerman came round and said I need to replace the diverter valve. He didn't really explain why or suggest that it could be fixed without replacing the whole part. He wants a lot of dosh for the job and i'm concerned because surely the diverter can be fixed rather than replaced.

Is there anything I can do myself to sort this out?

Cheers

It may only need a diaphragm, but it would be normal to take the DV out to get at it - yours is particularly difficult. Whether the body of the DV has a problem or not is difficult or impossible to tell when the diaphragm needs replacing.
The DV can be stripped down but the seals inside don't always want to come out and it takes a long time. Even changing the diaphragm disturbs a couple of seals. So it's understandable to say that changing the whole thing is sensible.

Is there anything I can do myself to sort this out?

Click to expand...

You could do it yourself, (assuming the diagnosis is correct) but an average diy car-repairing kit of tools wouldn't be enough, and it's the sort of thing which would be likely to leak the first time you did it, and all have to come out again.

If the tap requires opening fully to get the boiler to operate this is often due a faulty diverter valve.

It is normally just the front section containing a rubber diaphragm that fails. However on the 820 the whole diverter valve requires removal from the boiler. Since this is quite a lenghtly and difficult job due to space constraints it is prudent to change the whole valve. The valve can be stripped down and the seals etc replaced and cleaned up but most will just chose to replace with new as they don't want to risk a callback.

Typical price for the valve would be £40 to £100 (depending on whether its a grey market import or obtained from a merchant). A new auto air vent will be required (£5 - £10) and the expansion vessel re-chaging complete with the mandatory safety checks.

I would normally allow a couple of hours minimum ie around £80 labour (London) and if real agro up to £120 plus the part. Remember boiler isolating valves don't usually work and if the boiler is downstairs you may need a full draindown so more cost plus inhibitor chemicals.

Its a 1.5 hour job and not a very pleasant one either! If the plastic paddle falls off then its two hours!

The whole diverter is less than £100 so its good practice to replace the whole unit.

Tony

Thanks for the advice. I will get it done but not with this guy. He wants £300 all in and I thought that was rough.

I will pay the going rate but I want to give my cash to a decent bloke not a skank.

Cheers Gents

Skank 1108 up, 189 down

"""Derogatory term for a (usually younger) female, implying trashiness or tackiness, lower-class status, poor hygiene, flakiness, and a scrawny, pockmarked sort of ugliness. May also imply promiscuity, but not necessarily. Can apply to any race, but most commonly used to describe white trash.

You know that girl Crystal that lives in the trailer park? She's a total skank."""

Not the typical boiler engineer then! He is 43, 5' 10" with a very short haircut and drives an unmarked white van and speaks with a London acccent.

Oh dear, I'm too old, short, hairy, marked, and refined!

Your repair man may be quoting the illustrious PartsCenter:


Selected Product:900256

Description PL RAVENHEAT 3 WAY DIVERTER VALVE

Price
(Excluding VAT and quantity discounts) £160.41