Picture of Combi Boiler Earth Bonding

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Hello,

Can anyone supply a picture of a combi boiler's bonded pipework?

I would like to see what a professional installation is supposed to look like because I don't think the one I had done looks very good.

Thank you :)
 
all 5 pipes should be linked with 6mm earth cable and earth tags.

the equipotential bonding is 16mm cable which should be joined to the gas and water pipes.

why not post a picture of yours
 
Thanks - only have phone camera but can try and get it onto a computer. I can then put it on here?

Some thick earth cable connects to the pipes with clamps. Think it must be 6mm so that's OK then? I don't see any cable that looks 16mm :shock:

I would still like to see a picture of a good standard installation though if anyone has one?

:)
____________________________
Lynda, moderator

why did you use "smilies" but have the disable smilies box ticked?
 
the 16mm should be next to the gas meter and close to mains stop cock.

very few combis have an earth cable run directly to the main earth block so your pipes should just be linked
 
I am surprised by rob884's advice.

If you ask this question in the Electrics UK forum you will be told 10mm bonding from the Main Earthing Terminal in the consumer unit or beside the meter to metal pipes of incoming main services (gas, water and oil) within 60mm of their entering the building; and Supplementary Bonding of 4mm in the bathroom to each metal pipe that enters it, and to the earth conductor of each electrical circuit which enters it (but not required in the kitchen).

There are presumably CORGI or other Gas regulations for boilers which are not within the Electrical regulations but 16mm and 6mm sound surprisingly large to me.
 
Thanks again :) The pipes are all linked but not the gas one or the drain that goes outside so only four are linked. Do you think I should get him back?

JohnD have checked services and there is a thick cable from the gas pipe to the consumer unit. There is nothing on the mains water pipe but it enters the house from the kitchen just about! There is also a cable from the consumer unit to an earth rod.
_____________________________
Lynda, moderator

You have smilies dissabled here too
 
Yeah im probably wrong about it being 16mm rather than 10mm. Never had to do it. Although i stand by the supp. bonding being 6mm!
 
You should put one on the water pipe. It should be on the consumer's (your) side of the stop cock, and within 60mm of the pipe coming out of the floor. If you have plastic water pipe, put it on wherever it changes to copper (or steel).

The one on the Gas pipe should also be on the consumer's side of the meter (so that the pipes in your house continue to be bonded even when the meter is removed for serevicing or replacement). 10mm is correct for Main Bonding. The idea is that if you have bonded the pipes to your electrical system where they enter your house (or indeed bathroom), there is no way they should be able to pick up a voltage inside without blowing the fuse or tripping the MCB.

You are permitted to add Main and Supplementary bonding yourself, it is not notifiable under Building Regulations. You can buy Earthing clamps which include a metal label, they would cost you 50p to £1 each.

The earthing wire is Green and Yellow. It must be a single piece with no joins in it. You can buy cut lengths in most DIY stores.

There is a downloadable information sheet on the Electrics forum, I haven't time to look for it now.

ATB
 
Its apparently not necessary to bond the pipes underneath a boiler according to the regulations.

However, if the boiler does not have a metal plate linking the pipes electrically I would say its very advisable.

The main earth is the gas pipe with 10 mm within 600 mm of the meter outlet ( or where the pipe enters the property if the meter is outside ).

That produces such a good low impedance fault current path that it will blow the supply fuse if there were a serious fault.

Most other earthing seems to be at the discretion of the electrician!

Tony
 
trey, why do you insert smilies, but have the "disable smilie" box ticked? you seem to do it quite often
 
Slugbabydotcom said:

This thread is such an abuse and misuse of bs7671 not the least the worcester education literature. they should stick to making boilers.

Main equpotential bonding conductor size depends on type of earthing system and size of meter tails. This often means you are using 10mm csa but not always.

The need to bond pipes (if any ) beneath a boiler is open to interpretation.

The only part of a house where suplementary equipotential bonding is required is aspecial location such as a room with a bath or shower or a sauna or swimming pool, but excluding the kitchen. End of.

If the boiler is proximal to one of these rooms you may perform any necessary suplementary bonding at the boiler. The csa of the protective conductor again is dependent, but in most situations ends up being 4mm. To take it back to the main earth terminal (met) would be admirable but all that is required is to take it to the circuit protective conductor of one of the appliances inside the zones of the special location, and if there are none it is customary to use the light fitting, but if the bonding takes place at the boiler then naturally you would cage (faraday) it to the boiler cpc. This could take place at the boiler casework or at the fused spur.

In one place only bs7671 mensions that metal frames and central heating are part of the main equipotential bonding (which remember takes place within 600mm of entry to the building of external influences, is unbroken and goes right back to the met.).

This has to be interpreted with understanding. We must first decide the purpose of main equipotential bonding. the purpose is to provide a sone of safety. we call the safety system used to preserve life in household wiring EEBADS (earthed equipotential bonding and automatic disconnection of supply). In this system of protecting you we create a safe zone where all outside influences are bonded together as soon as they enter it. This is the equipotential zone. The rules for disconnection of supply are different inside this zone because of it's inherant safety to outside. (disconnection of supply is performed by fuses or breakers sometimes supplemented with rcd's combined with circuit protective conductors). We (those trained in household elctrical instalation inspecting and testing) are taught that an electrical fault outside this zone is invariably fatal, hence the requirement for rcd protection for equipment used outside the equipotential zone (garden and garage).

To create the equipotential zone we must therefore electrically bond together any metal part which starts life outside the zone. That is clearly metal gas metal oil and metal water services. These are made explicit in the regs. But metal heating systems which do not come from outside the zones are not any more introducing a potential from outside as is a metal water pipe internally joined to an alcathene supply pipe (which no should not be bonded).

It is also well within the scope of a suitably qualified person to decide that the bonding conductor may be of a different material to copper of 10mm csa. For instance the metal trunking is sometimes relied upon. It is not outside the realms of possibility that should a 22mm gas pipe be suitably joined with solder after testing,an electrician could decide that to bond it more conveniently than 600mm from the point of entry is satisfactory.

the beauty of the eleltrical rules is that they allow for interpretation by a person of suitable qualification, equipment to test continuity, and sufficient understanding of the purpose and requirements of the statements within bs7671, some of which to the ignorant apear to contradict..

It is my interpretation that heating pipes which do not enter the zone from outside are not part of the main equipotential bonding. As long as all incoming (metal) services are bonded, and all special locations are bonded, and the boiler is not in a special location, no bonding needs take place.

The problem we have now found ourselves with is that a few idiot leaders like that worcester one have gone baah, and all gas fitters like sheep are going baah baah. Now up and down the land there are little ewes's under boilers.

If my corgi inspector questions my rationale I will show him my qualifications and say show me more qualifications or leave it to me. If my Napit inspector questions it I will thrash it out with him, but would stand my ground.

It might be of interest to you that when I searched by enquiry the issue of heating bonding at Napit I had the examiner spinning in circles until he eventually conceded that it must be a "corgi requirement". in other words the elctrical bodies haven't a problem with my practice, as long as corgi haven't. My view on that is show me more qualifications and understanding and I'll go baah like the rest otherwise stay out of a field you clearly don't understand.
 
The beauty of the electrical rules is that they allow for interpretation by a person of suitable qualification, equipment to test continuity, and sufficient understanding of the purpose and requirements of the statements within BS7671, some of which to the ignorant apear to contradict. Beautifully put and strengthens the old adage
A little knowledge is ....
 
moderator, I enabled my smilies and edited a post with one in and it didn't change. Is it important though?

I'll just try one here to see if it works now:

:)
 

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