Recent content by 23vc

Pretty sure fine, guess only slight possibility is the oak’s bearing a really big load from the roof and by taking out half of the bit of wall you’re reducing how it’s spread, but pretty sure that’s not a concern unless someone chips in otherwise…

I’ve deffo laid recent blue class Bs with cracks on the “good” face like your pic, and not batted an eyelid (rightly or wrongly). But I’ve no idea how many were like that, I tend to trust my merchant and didn’t pay much attention. I also don’t reckon merchants deliberately fob off certain people...

you can hire pumps for this which kick in when needed

Off the shelf cavity closers give you your vertical dpc if fitted correctly so shouldn’t need anything additional to it. Can’t see any need for weep vents anywhere, unless you’ve got a cavity tray somewhere (normally above openings)

Apart from the door, is the rest of the screed dry? If the insulation is supported by something solid and doesn’t just push down, I’d break out the top 3-4 inches or so of it, put a trough of dpm in, and pour some concrete in and smooth off level with existing. Then fit cavity closers on the...

Probably, but go very gentle to try and keep the plinth bricks as they are, pointing colour/style will inevitably not quite match, so be less visible if the plinths aren’t redone

So the door has a (small) gable above it, like in the pic? What’s the gable made of? If it’s just some cladding, then yeah just frame it in timber. If it’s masonry, it’d need to sit on some kind of lintel…

Ended up doing black and white gravel chippings with block paved margin on mine, got me away from the planning/soakaway requirement, took a fraction of the time and looks really good tbf (2 years on). Plus any stains like car oil leaks are a non-issue as just replenish a bit of gravel.

Might get away with foaming the whole thing then sticking the new piece in, if you can hold it from pushing out as it sets

Bend should be fine as they’re ducted up into the house within a 90 orange soil bend often..it’s more making sure you haven’t got excess length after swinging it. So to speak.

Finding an experienced/older established builder through family or friends connections who’s willing to take on someone for ad hoc labouring, material runs, maybe part time etc, could be one route in…

Yeah I deffo wouldn’t plasterboard an uninsulated (shed) wall, it’ll end up degrading with moisture. you could do something like ply potentially tho.

Are you dry lining/plastering any of it or is it literally a wooden (ship lap type) shed with the usual air gaps all over? If the latter, probably ok apart from pipe lagging etc as said. If the former, it’s not going to go well, mouldy damp plastered surfaces/interior timber etc…

I don’t reckon it’d expand anywhere near the full length of the van, and even if it did it’d make zero noticeable difference, due to the very small thermal mass of the van, I think you’d probably have to do something a lot more substantial to have any effect…

I can’t see foam not working tbh as it sticks to everything. and for such small areas it’s not the same as large wall panels and a danger of them coming off whole. Top reveal normally supported by sides anyway which further locks things in place. I would deffo crack on and would not bother...