Thanks foxhole, I have some hasp and staples sitting about so I'll see if I can attach them somewhere. The garage door isn't the best, probably been there since the house got built so a couple tower bolts and a hasp at the bottom will do the trick.
It's an integral garage in a townhouse, it's...
My brain just caught up with me
I can use tower bolts instead actually by attaching the main body into the concrete lintel and then the boltrings into the garage door itself, couple of them one each side should do ok.
thanks again
Thanks guys
The garage is an integral one so attached to the house, inside is a personal door into my house and that is a heavy firedoor with sash mortice lock and bolts.
I get into the garage that way and will only be having the metal door opened if I need to move something large in or out...
Hi
I have an up and over garage door which currently is locked with just the standard barreled handle it comes with, it moves a couple of bits of metal into locking plates on the side of it. Wanting to increase the security on this door as it can easily be gotten into right now with a hammer...
Been in touch with property manager, put forward my suggestions on lightpulls and doorframe tape and waiting on a response from the owner. Offered to open my doors to the tenants and owners if they want to come in and have a listen.
Spent a while sitting up in the loft with my back to the...
Tony, spot on, thanks for reminding me. When I was poking up there the other week I noticed some of the pointing was a bit weak and chipped so I'll go and fill all that in.
Cheers for that
Because I can hear doors shutting through the walls but it is dulled, up on the top floor it is such a sharp noise it sounds like it is in my property. Also when I hear it the sound sounds like it is coming from the loft, the noise feels above me so I reckon the soundwaves have found their way...
Yes it used to be a 3 storey townhouse but over the last year they had workmen in turning each floor into a flat.
When a townhouse if it is laid out like mine, don't see why it wouldn't have been, then the party wall would have had zero doors near it on ground and first floor, just the...
Hi thanks for the replies
Been researching over the net through the day and deciding on the following course of action
Primary - polite chat with the tenants/neighbours about rubber lightpull and sound damping tape in the door jambs. This is cheap and quick so the obvious first step...
Hi to anyone who has a read
I live in a 1960 - 1970s end terraced house. Recently I've been noticing I can hear impact noises from next door, mainly them shutting doors and also the pullcord switch in their bathrooms where the string flaps around and the plastic handle bangs against the...
Checked it out and couldn't find any plywood boards on a 20.5mm thickness. 18mm is closest, if I will have to fiddle around with packing it out I might as well just fiddle around with 2 boards of different thickness.
It's cheaper buying 2 boards as well it seems, going to do that.
Thanks all
So have finally got round to cutting up the joining board so I can then lay a wider board as suggested above. Measuring the gap of these 2 boards, I will need a new board at around 235mm wide to fill it and the widest that B+Q have is 217mm
Any advice on a decent national timber merchant...
That's a good idea, I'll see if I can get some wood wide enough and then screw it down which will mean easy future access. There's loads of joist under the other board.
Thanks