Recent content by AkiraDIY

I've been thinking of using timber instead of loft legs to do the walkway for better stability since I don't think contractors will be particularly light footed when walking on it. I was reading some posts about using timber and people say weight is a possible concern. Got me wondering why...

I need to scope out the walkway properly, see how fixed the planks are or do they come off easy. I think the mains electricity enters my flat around the walkway area so might be best to just leave that half meter walkway alone. I'll get some pictures when I get round to doing it, need to clean...

that's perfect thanks. I forgot to check the centers last time I was up but 400 sounds about right. Access to the roof is via a skylight in the loft and annoyingly, the loft hatch is in the stairwell facing the front of the building and the skylight is at the back of the building. So...

thanks for the reply. From what I read, shower cables and downlights are the main concern but I'll pick up some corrugated conduit when I get the insulation too. Doesn't hurt to be safe and won't take that long to fit. Just a side thought though, if the cables are supposed to be clipped/secured...

The previous owner of my flat rewired the place and the budget spark they used pulled up all the insulation and piled it in a corner. I had a surveyor out to get it insulated under GBIS but he says that since it was insulated properly before, they cannot do it under the scheme despite it being...

sounds more affordable than stripping all the plaster off the walls and starting again! I saw a lot of efflorescence/salts around the edges where the vinyl met the wall and also on the lower part of that damp internal wall I mentioned before. I can only assume the ground level is below or...

the land is higher by about 1.5m, it's a half basement / sub ground floor, also 100m from the sea. Super old building, pre-1800s. The upstairs neighbour stripped wallpaper and found 1679 written on the wall but I don't believe it's that old. I think the basement was dug out in the 1970s or 80s...

carpet will just get damp and mouldy surely? Debating using some kind of liquid DPM but the floor area is around 60m2, so could get quite expensive. Also one room has quite a damp wall that I can only assume is rising damp (no pipes in the area and internal wall too) and concerned a liquid DPM...

All of the above. CertAss is an alternative to FENSA but it's essentially the same. Holds no real weight in my opinion. FENSA Scotland only came in recently and is a voluntary scheme that most people don't even know about and those that do, generally don't care. No-one I know that's bought or...

The concrete is pretty level. The type of flooring is what I'm asking. I'll lay whatever is most suitable

I recently pulled up a bunch of old lino that was laid directly over bare concrete. The lino was completely mouldy underneath, presumably due to the lack of breathability and high moisture levels. Is there any type of flooring/underlay that can breathe or am I looking at a liquid DPM + self...

the weep holes/slots in the sash are 600mm apart on centre. I think they're just spaced out too much and that allows enough water to collect and stream out when they get opened. I'll ask him to come back and put another hole in

noone signed them off and it's also not my question. FENSA certs aren't a thing in scotland.

There are no trickle vents on the windows. I know it's against regs but I'm high up and they whistle in the wind. I prefer not to have them. By weep hole, I mean the drain hole in the bottom of the sash frame (the part that opens) to allow water out. When I open the window, water comes out...

no-one got 2 cents worth sharing?