Recent content by akist

The thermostat is incorporated into the heating element in all heating elements I have seen. Usually there is a dial or buttons to set the required temperature. It is an uncomfortable position as they are so low (like 300 off the ground).

The controller, be that wireless or not, is on the heating element, sits below the radiator. "Outside of zones" I meant. I have seen "zone 3" mentioned here and there though. I have not checked to be honest. I know they are very low wattage, usually 250W-300W, about an ampere, the one I will...

Can I install an electric towel rail (in zone 3) with its own timer and controls, and feed it off a mains sockets spur from an adjacent room (drill a hole through the wall, pull a cable from a near by mains socket)? That means the heated rail will always be "live" (like a mains socket) and will...

Yes, there are two allen screws : one at the bottom of the hinge to lift the door up/down, and one allen screw on the side of the hinge to tilt the door (move it towards or away from the frame). Looking at the hinge it appears the "pin" is bent and leaning out. It also appears that it is not...

I am trying to lower this door. The four door hinges appear to be bottomed out in the height position shown, and I can slacken, or even remove the height adjustment screws with no effect. It may be that this already is the bottom of the hinges, but I am looking at the gap which seems to be...

Yes I thought that, and was looking for some kind of Y connector but no luck. But then I looked at the photo and realised it is all bad. Whilst looking at the photo I saw that the W/D is connected next to the sink and then is the output, so it is logical that it backs up to the sink first...

This is a sketch of the waste arrangement under the kitchen sink. The waste disposer is strong and pushes waste up through the first bowl and the the common overflow. How can I fix this? My solution is to separate the two wastes but then I would need another hole in the wall. Not impossible...

This morning I used the new 30mm socket I bought, and it came out with no fuss. I did not even have to use the wrench, I just turned the socket with one hand and it came off... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0D141B659

Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately I need a 30mm box spanner, they are rare or very expensive. I got a 30mm heavy duty socket that I may also use elsewhere. It might not work due to the plastic nut having a very short head. In which case I will need a proper box spanner.

That screw on the photo holds the lever in place, you only need to slacken it a bit. The cartridge is held in with that plastic "cartridge retaining nut". The replacement cartridge arrived without a new o-ring seal and nut (being it plastic). The nut is 30mm, very hard to find box spanners...

Thank you and I thought about that, and then worried it would strip the head right off. But I iwll try, nothing to lose.

I was trying to replace the cartridge on this Hansgrohe tap. The retaining nut is plastic and it is very stiff and distorts when I try to undo it. If I press harder it will snap. Is there anything I can do other than replacing the tap?

They asked me to send them photos and video, which I have done and waiting on further response.

Yes, because the two meters agree 100%, my thinking was there is a conspiracy to defraud the unsuspecting British public... I would not put anything past them. Otherwise it may mean we are really spending all this electricity. For what its worth we are spending about 70% of our traditional...

Because the isolator, a huge box, has an output of a 35mm armoured cable, impossible to intervene, whereas the company's meter only outputs two relatively easier to handle tails. The crimps alone that go into the isolator require a 3 foot crimping tool.