Recent content by alex.bennett

If the flue is capped at the top, you still need some airflow. So yes, in most cases a vent is recommended. It helps stop moisture build-up inside the chimney. I wouldn’t vent it into the underfloor void. That space needs to stay dry too. Better to vent into the room with a small grille so air...

Hi Mac, I think your approach makes sense on solid rock. Strip foundations can be overkill in this situation and just add time and cost. A pad and steel beam setup, properly designed for lateral load and uplift, is a valid solution and not unusual on steep sites, especially where compact...

It won’t stay up for long. Five courses over a 900mm opening is already risky without support. The blocks can crack or drop at any time, even while you’re working. Get a lintel or at least a strong prop in before going any further.

That decision comes from the engineer, not just a rule of thumb. They check the load path, wall type, and foundation size to see if the existing external wall can take it. If it can’t, they’ll usually call for a spreader plate, a pier, or a post down to new footing.

You need to add a 3mm spacer behind each slide to make up for the thinner cabinet walls. The sticking happens because the slides are currently too far apart and are pulling at an angle. Adding the spacers will keep everything parallel so the drawer can glide properly.

Building a garden room directly against a retaining wall is risky because of damp. Even with a DPC tray, water from the flower beds can soak through the brickwork over time. You need a tanking system or a waterproof membrane on the external side of the wall to keep the interior dry.

It sounds like you’re in a good spot since the work hasn’t started yet. If you’re not confident about the online form, it might be safer to go back to the person who helped with the initial plans.

That saw setup is a huge safety risk. It lacks a blade guard and riving knife, which are standard for preventing serious injury or kickback.

Rapid set tile adhesive works fine for sticking XPS boards to blockwork. You should try to keep the adhesive layer thin and consistent to avoid creating large hollow gaps. If the wall is uneven, you can use extra adhesive in the low spots to level the boards out. Adding screws and washers once...

If the wall in Zone 2 is entirely on your land, it is a boundary wall, not a party wall. Your neighbor can't claim it's a party wall just for the construction phase and then call it a boundary wall later.

Since the patches are not wet to touch, it might still be a moisture issue from poor ventilation and cold walls, not just water ingress. You are running a dehumidifier, but maybe look at adding an extractor fan to this room. I'd definitely check the exterior of the house first for bad seals...

Your builder is only partly right here. Yes, you can change your garden level, but you can't push soil up against your neighbor's fence. A fence is not a retaining wall and will fail.

You can just use MDF or moisture-resistant plywood, screw it together, and then tile it or paint it to match your bathroom.

That rough look and mixed-up brick pattern likely mean this is an infill. When someone reduces the depth of a chimney breast, they often just patch the hole with whatever brick bits fit. That area was never meant to be exposed, which is why it doesn't have the clean stretcher bond you'd expect...

Brick slips might look okay, but it is an extra layer that could cause issues later. Maybe a compromise would be to just clean up the bricks as best you can and then see what a low-level plinth render looks like, not a full skirt. It would protect the base and still show more of your original...