Recent content by amfisted

I don’t have access to any of that stuff but thanks for the suggestion, anyhow.

One of those solutions is bound to work, thanks. And I do have an SDS drill, with a chisel attachment that I used to break up old concrete and stones and split/shred several roots, when I was digging the post holes for the new fence.

Many thanks again, all. I now have a slightly different post removal issue. Since my original question was posed I’ve put in a short run of 4ft panels with 1ft gravel boards and 6ft 9in concrete posts, but I’ve overcompensated when attempting not to crush my neighbours plants and set one panel...

I'm no fan of the feline species but that seems a tad extreme. Oh, and cats go Miaow, not Woof

Sadly, finding three men who are willing to help might be difficult for a "Billy No Mates" like me. Otherwise, an entirely logical contribution.

Not possible in this case because the rope would have to go round several corners between the post and the car, but interesting suggestion.

If we had a couple of dozen acres of garden in which the blast might dissipate, and no breakable windows nearby, maybe. But not in the humble garden of a semi detached bungalow in Wales

Thanks again. No rush, so I’ll take my time and follow your advice.

Afternoon all Best way to remove an old concrete fence post, please, preferably without specialist equipment. I'm minded to cut the post at the base with an angle grinder (supported whilst doing so, to prevent nasty accidents) then use a chisel attachment on an SDS drill to break up the base...

Sounds simple enough, I agree. But there’s only so much of the rigid sleeve either end that I can cut off, and I need that sleeve to secure it to the waste spigot and sink overflow outlet. It’s a very small sink that was fitted to maximise worktop area ( and to save money on buying a better...

Got a slight problem that doesn’t feel as if it should be a problem…but it is. The overflow from my kitchen sink is too long for the distance between the waste spigot and the overflow connection to the sink. I’ve cut away some of the spigot on the overflow to shorten it but as you can see, it’s...

You’re not using a lubricant on the spigot, are you? Pretty sure those connectors are meant to go on “dry”. I once put washing-up liquid on a WC spigot before fitting the connector, and there was no way I could get it to seal.

Thanks to you also for that. Hopefully asbestos disposal is just as simple for a DIYer in our locality. I'll check.

I'd have to check the asbestos disposal arrangements in this area before going ahead, but thanks.

We've got a few other things to pay for in the meantime and as I said above, the old asbestos roof is still watertight, so no rush. The garage is positively rammed with stuff, and although I haven't yet had an onsite survey by the firm that quoted 2.5k, I'm sure most of it would have to come out...