Nope. Haven't replaced the lickshield valve. The valve on the flow side is definitely working- gets hot and regulates flow. The valve on return remains cold. I am wondering that if its the valve - then they'd both get hot?
Thanks. Can you help me understand what is coding the battery to the car? My previous car battery had corroded out, so the garage replaced it with a new one. They rechecked all connections as well.
Do you mean reprogramming the key to the car? Sorry if these are very simple questions.
Right, that makes total sense. It's probably the last in the circuit. So had a slower flow anyway and then the debris aggravated the issue.
I also get a lot of gurgling noises in the top radiators despite bleeding them often. One plumber suggested it could be the gases building up due to...
Thanks. I tried this technique on Sunday. Shut all the rads except this. Yet it never budged beyond 40 degrees ( I have an infrared thermometer to check the temperature). When I slowly opened the other rads, they quickly jumped to 60 degrees within 10 minutes or so.
We have put an inhibitor as well. Was put when instalation was done. But I have seen the liquid coming out is dark brown in colour. Probably the new radiators needed a flush when installed and it wasn't done? Also does it make a difference that they are cast iron? Do they sludge quicker?
Yes, it was strange that we saw corrosion on the battery. It kept dying so we finally had to replace it. Have a new start stop battery fitted in last week. The key fault started only after the new battery was fit in.