Ok, thanks - seems like boarding over will be the easiest. I'm just not sure best way to make the holes safely in the artex for the downlights? I've seen people mention shaving foam or soaking the surface and peeling it off?
Hi,
Looking to refurb our bathroom, starting with the ceiling.
Current ceiling is artex covered, with a single light in the middle and a passive vent that is piped and exits through the roof (handy).
In an ideal world, I'd like 3-4 recessed downlighters and an extractor fan placed centrally...
Yes, thanks they look good. I'm guessing 80mm would be more than sufficient when going into a solid wall? Just read in the comments that the screw diameter is 7mm so may not have to drill out the brackets.
Any thoughts on using these filler discs to pack out the couple of iffy holes...
Hi, I've hung an 1800 x 568 vertical rad up in our kitchen ready to be plumbed in. It weighs 48kg dry and sits on 4 metal brackets that have 2 fixing holes each. Afaik the wall is plaster on brick.
The metal nut type fixings I bought initially didn't fit through the bracket holes (the fixings...
Could I get away with a low cross member but one that doesn't actually touch the floor?
I think that because the eng. wooden floor is floated, I guess I'm trying to avoid using it to support anything. Alternatively I could lift the floorboard nearest the wall and trim it down so that I can run...
See pic - ignore wires :)
Looking to build a false wall along where the C/H pipes are to cover them up and create a nice flat wall to probably place a fridge and some tall units or shelving.
My question is, if I were to batten this block wall to attach plasterboard can I get away with just...
Ignoring wire world on the photo just for a second :), I have a question about the best method to get these central heating pipes moved into (or as close to) the corner as possible, so that I can box them in neatly into the corner and along the ceiling.
It's in 22mm copper, so my first thought...
I've built a stud framework to block up an internal doorway between two bedrooms.
On one side, I've attached 12.5mm plasterboard but I'm getting a rebate to the existing wall of around 5-6mm at the top and maybe 10-11mm lower down. Was thinking I could take off the 12.5mm and double up 2 sheets...
Kitchen tiles off, mess created.
Pic attached. Plan (currently) is to tile the hob splashback, so I'm going to remove the old tile adhesive and tile up the central area once the kitchen and worktops are down. However, the areas either side I don't massively want to tile, but just have upstands...
Thanks for the response.
I’ve just measured up and realised if I bring the units forward at the top it means the left hand run doesn’t end flush with the end of the wall it’s backing onto (kitchen is an upside down L shape)