Recent content by beano1939

Since I started this discussion in 2008, perhaps I may be permitted to add the latest experience with my freezer Miele f7131s. It was over-cooling and repaired [not by me] in 2009. Now the same fault has recurred, namely that the compressor runs all the time dropping the temperature to -32...

Hello, kerryg, . I am not familiar with the timer used by TECHNIKA, however I imagine that apart from appearance, most are fundamentally the same inside. Yes, mine was flashing and could not be set to switch the cooker on. So unless bypassed in some way the complete appliance was useless...

I think Boilerman 2 is correct. I have experienced frequent lockouts with a Balanced flue boiler over several years in a rental property. I have changed everything several times following Expert advice. The problem sometimes seems to be resolved for a few weeks, then another 'phone call ...

I have used diluted pva sealer in similar situations. This provides a good base for more plaster or Emulsion paint or wallpaper. It is particularly good if you need to spot repair the old plaster before finishing.

I also had a similar problem and was able to fix it following the advice from nickhill. This saved me the exorbitant cost of a new timer. However Maplin do not appear to stock this capacitor at 125 degree rating. I did obtain the exact specification from RS, but I had to buy five. So if anybody...

I am proposing to install a down flow fan heater above the door of my Bathroom ,to replace an existing radiant heater. It will be in Zone2, so I need an IPX4 rated unit. There seem to be only Dimplex and Creda models suitable. There is 227 cm from floor to ceiling and only 28 cm above the...

I would bet that most of the 4 million systems have room thermostats of some kind. Mine doesn't. It also has 13 TRV's and no bypass. So some changes are necessary, but this was the subject of an earlier thread.

Thanks, D Hailsham for the wiring advice. That's an elegant and cost -effective solution, worth trying as there are no significant plumbing changes.. Thanks also, Pedanticvindictiveman. I thought your suggestion was fine until the latest input from Stem. My radiator boiler is Oil...

I have googled the Sunvic momo valves and although the concept seems good,their reputation for reliability seems to be dubious. Honeywell are better regarded, so as they make both normally-open [V4043B ] and normally-closed [V4043H] 2-ports, I have decided to go for one of each and change the...

Thanks,both of you for helpful replies. As my system is almost always on CH only,I was hoping to have a control system where the valve is normally open and not energised. It saves a bit of power and is likely to be more reliable. With a 2-port arrangement,either valve would have to be energised...

None on one of them, fuse is 40 A. Other has a 60A fuse and then at the receiving end, four very early mcbs [ the type that were fitted in CU fuse carriers] two at 32A and two at 6A.

My incoming supply fuse has been uprated to 100A. As well as one CU with a 100A RCD, there is also two separate 63A RCDs each with their own fused switch for outside services. These RCDs are connected in parallel with the CU, directly to the output side of the meter. Is their rating OK, given...

I have a y-plan combined HW/CH open vent conventional system. There are other separate systems for HW e.g.Rayburn and Solar. Consequently the 3-port valve is almost always programmed in the CH position and is permanently energised. Can the valve be plumbed the other way round so the CH port is...

Thanks everyone for your help on this matter. As my initial enquiry raised other points regarding the efficacy of my heating system, I have moved to another thread.

Thanks for the very helpful answers. The HW tank is vented [tee off HW outlet on top]. It has 3 separate coils inside : HW from boiler; HW from Rayburn; HW from solar -not much room for the secondary water! There is only a 3-port valve on the boiler circuit:the others are entirely separate...