Recent content by Bear2Biker

Well I would stick with electric, yes you have a cable to manage but the battery ones are 1. expensive, 2. waiting for charge, 3. not enough included batteries, 4. a bit weighty with battery . I bought a small 15L Machine Mart air compressor kit a few years back with all sorts of attachments...

Found on an Irish plumbing forum where there are a couple of threads about this, though nothing recent (2022) "Because its external and connected to the top and bottom of the tank it sets up a very low powered thermal syphon so it pushes hot water out the top while sucking cold(er) water in...

post a photo of the alarm control panel, others on here may be able to help in "resetting" or otherwise

I had a similar problem with kitchen taps, removing the cartridges revealed badly crushed washers, for less than a tenner I replaced the pair with ceramic valves, wish I'd done it earlier, better flow, even pressure and absolutely no drips, (also the hot tap consistent flow when "warmed up")...

I fix vacuums as one of my hobbies and even same manufacturer & style can be different & frustrating, double check all the screw holes you can see and check any labels (I run a retracted biro over them, if needed use a sharp knife to carefully peel back the label, enabling refixing after) also...

The OP's router model is optical fed (nnnn-g-A = RJ45 nnnn-g-B = optical) so whilst it would still be a good idea to move it for greatest reception, there are limitations on fitting a new longer fibre optic cable to the required place, no kinks, no small or tight bends no trapping, probably no...

seems it does :- Compatibility: It is available for various Linux distributions, including Debian, Ubuntu, CentOS, Fedora, and Raspbian.

I've just looked at your link and read the installation requirements, which describe using single OR double back boxes, the important bit seems to be that the mounting screws are in a horizontal line (which most are) so does your backbox differ ?

Looks like the old fittings are halogen so being fed AC from the transformers, the new ones are LED DC only without a power supply, so the Op needs A: a rectifier unit, or B: pull ceiling down or make holes where TX's are & replace with suitable power supply. or C: other as advised on here shortly!

Are you near an old railway ? I lived in a 1700's cottage modified heavily in the 1900's - used the local (then closed) coal railway rails for support beams for all the extensions they added.

replace the hosepipe with something bigger, Std hosepipe is 15mm outside diameter, 10/11mm inside, even that short length will present significant resistance to water flow as its not presurised-resulting in long fill periods, ive got 5 water butts feeding two IBC's all connected, had to change...

If the hole is now 3" deep then the rot has allready started, Birch is structually a softwood and your probably looking at an expanding 4"-12" area of decayed non structural wood under the 3" hole, nothing you do now will strengthen or repair it, sadly from your reported height of the hole a...

Ive got several fittings from different makes, most work together but not all, yes the brass style fittings do seem to work better/longer, I found the biggest problem being the 'O' ring on the male ends degrading, some are silicon, some are more plastic based & flatten easily, resulting in a 'no...

Harry, thanks for correcting me, brain not in gear( it was a bit early for me), I just remember the OP saying the supply cables seemed to go from 1 to the other, but no that draw probably wouldn't discolour the FCU even if it was on 24/7, I've looked in mine (which isnt currently opperational) &...

Hi all, as the elements are at the same height (so seemingly act similarly) is it possible that they are wired in series despite the the labeling, this would still draw fairly close to 12+ amps for a considerable time, giving the browning effect on the FCU. I have a Gledhill upright and the...