Recent content by bikeman123

I know this is an old post but as it turns up high on google I'm going to post a response. The OP asks why is 5/8 washer is actually 22mm. He could have asked why the 3/8 tap washer is actually 5/8. Or he could have asked why a host of other pipework is not actually the size stated. Why is...

It is perfectly acceptable for notifiable work to be carried out by unqualified persons - they just need to notify it and get it checked. Refusing to share knowledge with diy'ers is protectionist and can even be dangerous since the diy'er is still likely to give it a go.

And you clearly don't seem to understand that when CH and DHW are off the mottor remains energised and gets extremely hot. Heat is the enemy of electronics. Argue all you like.

Agile - my CH/DHW are on for an hour in the morning and 5 hours at night in the winter during this time the valve moves around depending upon demand. BUT for the remaining 18 hours a day the motor holds against the springs in the last position. 9 times out of ten this is the CH position - IT...

I don't agree - my system and I expect most, satisfy the DHW first so almost always end the daily cycle in the powered mid or CH position and then spend the rest of the day quietly smouldering until the next cycle. Even uncovered by blankets etc the motors get very hot - much too hot to touch...

When the Honeywell v4073 rests in the mid position or in the A position (CH) it draws a current to hold against the spring and gets very hot. Seems to me that if Honeywell designed these valves to rest in the B position the motors wouldn't burn out so frequently.

Sorry I meant HeatTeam. Anyway I am pleased to say that it is now fixed. The burner modulates down as the flow water heats up and actually turns off when the flow reaches temp - something I was told wouldn't happen. I am sure it wil now be much more economical. Fingers crossed all will be ok...

Had a newteam rgi out this afternoon - came highly recommended by neighbours but he didn't run any tests, didn't check gas pressure and simply tried 3 pcbs in turn - all the same. Then removed a couple of the pcb jumpers and charged me £120 for a new board. I suspect the jumpers he removed...

Helpful thanks.

My Potterton Promax 15HE not modulating - the burner is always at max and never modulates down. Had several engineers scratching their heads. Eventually found a guy who'd do it for a fixed price. He has changed the flow thermister and both the control and ignition pcbs but no fix yet...

Ok let me be clear my op expressed frustration that boiler mfrs probide no coop with non gsd safe engrs even to help rule out elec probs. Test values would be nice but thsts not the pointof my op. Obvioisly i woulnt expect any rgi to agree that they should do so.

mmm so what you're saying is you dont diy because other trades are sacrosant to you so when you need a new battery for your your car you take it to a mechanic, when you need the spare room painted you get in a decorator, when your sink blocks you call in a plumber... maybe you've got more money...

Correct me if I am wrong but Gas Safe seems to be nothing more than a register - anyone can regsiter as long as they pay the fee, no qualifications or proven competence required. Not that dissimilar from the Federation of Master Builders and others. Might be worth me paying the £190 + vat...

Called out a gas safe engineer today and he changed the thermister at a cost of £50. No improvement. I cant afford to have someone change parts willy nilly at my expense. Unfotunately gas safe doesnt seem to equate to competent. If it needs a pcb ill change it myself - its only a couple of...