Recent content by Blokky27

I’ve already bought and laid the 20mm pipe in the driveway ditch (just not backfilled yet). Just need to solve the frost issue before I do that.

Anyone with any further thoughts re water either side of the low point and/or effectiveness of lagging?

Hi all Thanks again for the suggestions. 1. Yes we already collect from the garage into 2 large water butts with a pump to spray the flower beds etc but it often runs out and whilst yes we could top it up it's just a pain to run a hose so far every time. Also, we want the extra tap by the...

Thanks for the link. An interesting watch. However, as I'm not taking up a 300 year old york stone pathway for this the question remains, mainly about whether I can drain the system enough in the winter to avoid freezing with the first section above ground, leading to the low bit 40cm under the...

Hello I'm certainly no expert, but I'll give you my thoughts having built my own pergola last year. I used 100x100 treated for the verticals and then I think 6x2 for the side horizontals and 4x2 for the ones across the top - all pressure treated. So to get the grading stamps yes it was just a...

Hello all Slightly odd situation of our house having a garden which is about 25m from the back door. We have to walk down a 15m pathway (covered in centuries old york stone slabs, cross our driveway and then down another 5m pathway next to our garage before we get to the start of the garden...

Sounds good - I'm going to go with number 2, along with some metal M6x40 pins instead of wooden dowels. I'm thinking chisel out about 10mm depth?

Thanks all - looks like my bank holiday weekend is now fully booked out! Will let you know how I get on.

Thank you for the suggestion - it may not be clear from the photo but I used wooden dowels at each end of the verticals to try and strengthen, but they have snapped. I can see how recessing the verticals might help - how do I go about making rectangular recesses that are tight enough to give a...

I'm confused (rather than doubting you, I promise - just would rather learn rather than "accept and do!"). The base rail hasn't failed - it's completely intact. It's the joints (top and bottom) that have shown weakness and failed.

How would a larger base rail add strength though - it's not the base rail but the joints that failed due to the weight/torque?

My thoughts when making it in the first place was that this would add weight and exaggerate the problem I now have?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stainless-Cylindrical-Elements-Furniture-Installation/dp/B0DT14TGX2/ref=sr_1_7?crid=238W1GY6ATT5I&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.S-1xxNdwNwi11UIGwWMac_P6Bn6g5WVroeHMjoSloXK5bJUNJiUuJGAkcnTsfGd9EwceMVt_mNy_OFNEs_jvT6AIaO62Cfo0UpTzjtcXlwsDy7EMOANaESOJXqQVTbKRuUEJZAzSdku2tjNMdehtLkNsKolog...

I always thought screwing into end-grain as would be the case here, is a bit of a no-no?

Thanks - it's an idea, but being a 400 year old house I want to try and keep modern materials out - not the style I'm after. Just a thought - are regular dowels made from softwood or hardwood - is it possible to get both? I just used what I had, which if both are available, could easily be...