Recent content by BoredSeb

Well done Ian, as soon as you typed that I thought it would be the case! RMS - yes, that gauge needs to be a bit higher - you need to add more water to the system (with the fill loop) until the bar graph on the display is in the middle when system cold. The bypass is built into the boiler and...

From the installation manual: Preventing low water pressure - To ensure that the heating installation operates smoothly, the indicator on the pressure gauge must point to the upper half of the grey area or to the middle of the bar graph display in the display (marked by the dashed limit...

well I've been a gas/oil engineer since 1996 so I guess I must be doing something right!

Don't remove the coil if it's connected, it'll probably melt when energised and you won't be able to get it back on the solenoid valve. Unplug it - many have a push fit connector. Google for the manual for that burner to see where the electrodes should be positioned. To test the ignition I...

How old is the boiler? It does sound like the PCB, it was a common fault on the Suprima, mainly dry solder joints. Was it replaced with a new or reconditioned board? I seem to remember that the PCB was revised/improved at some point and came with a replacement wiring loom. Have a google for your...

It would be a good idea if you posted a photo of the pump so we can confirm it is a secondary return pump. If your primary pump controlled by your boiler you could probably just use the same live or use that live to switch a relay.

Not sure you are grasping the concept of a secondary return pump, it is just to keep the water in the pipes hot so that you don't have to run the taps too long and wait for hot water. Set the timer for when you expect hot water to be used i.e. early morning and afternoon/evening. Your cylinder...

Personally I would initially run Fernox F3 or equivalent cleaner through the system for a week or 2 and then flush and refill. The only caveat to this is that I would definitely have a filter on the flow to the HE (i.e. the return to your heat source), as it may get blocked (and clean it daily)...

That looks like an interesting system! If it is microbore it will be piped differently then a conventional system. Think an 8mm pipe can only carry about 1.5Kw and a 10mm pipe about 2.5Kw. The flow and returns are usually piped in, say, 22mm to a manifold, and then each rad will have a flow and...

You really should replace the oil filter as there could be water in the bowl. There may also be a separator that requires draining. Water in the fuel line will quickly kill the oil pump. Also would be a good idea to check oil tank for water and bacterial growth. Burner head will probably...

You probably still need to refer to the manufactures spec, but what I can tell you is that the 50mm Skamotec I have to the side of my stove is too hot to touch on the tiled side and completely cool on the other side! I guess if you wanted to follow the letter of the law and allow for an air gap...

Two things - a majority of modern wood burning stoves don't require a full constructional hearth as they are designed to have cool undersides. Check manufactures requirements. Second - you really don't need to start pouring concrete with modern materials. I used 90mm of Skamotec underneath mine...

One other thing (you probs know this but I'm gonna tell you anyway), it may have just locked out (which is why it's not doing anything) The red reset button will glow but you won't see it in daylight. You often need to hold it in for a few seconds to get it to reset. Let us know how you get on (y)

I usually work on gas burners but can hopefully provide a few pointers (do occasionally work on oil). The power will likely come through the stat and over temp stat sited above your burner (to reset the over temp, unscrew the cap and push in the button), then to the control box base. Check for...