Recent content by Brad Naylor

Unfortunately, the tannins in oak reacts with iron to cause these black stains. This is why Oilman asked you whether you had used wire wool, as strands of the wool often get caught in the grain of oak, causing the stains. It is probable that an iron trivet or other kitchen utensil has been...

Has anybody tried one of these yet? http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/7111112/Trail/C%24cip%3D1500006333.Garden%2C%2BDIY%2Band%2Bleisure%3EC%24cip%3D1500006452.DIY%2Bpower%2Btools%3EC%24cip%3D1500006453.Multi%2Bpurpose%2Bpower%2Btools.htm It is an obvious copy of the excellent...

If you are going to stain the worktops I would recommend the 'Classique' range from Morrells Woodfinisheshttp://www.morrells.co.uk/home.php These are cellulose based wood dyes which will give a good even finish over the large area of a worktop. Apply oil afterwards. However, I would...

If you like oak, if you want oak, then insist on oak. You are going to be disappointed with anything else. The joiners you have spoken to who advise alternatives should be avoided. Oak is more difficult to work with as it harder and has a habit of unexpectedly splitting along the grain when...

Nowt wrong with Danish oil if you get a good make. It sounds as if the problem here is that it had a pigment in it. I use Danish oil from Morrells for all my worktops - usually oak - and it gives great results. Don't underestimate the benefits of it being quick drying! You can get 2 coats...

I like to cut and glue up manageable sections using mitre-fix or similar on the bench or floor. Ideally the final assembly up a ladder will then only consist of a few joints - preferably internal ones.

You've only got to remove .75 mm of radius so I 'd try this; Get a piece of steel about 5-8mm thick and drill an 8.5mm hole through it. Hold the steel firmly in a vice or workmate and simply bash the 10mm dowel through the hole with a mallet. It sounds crude (it is!) but it's effective.

Try www.portwoodtimber.co.uk They're in Stockport - only 30 miles away on the civilised side of the hills! Cheers Brad

Word is that Winzer Wurth are about to open 40 Screwfix style trade counters around the country following a couple of successful trial stores. I use their products a lot and they're excellent - if the trade counters are run with German efficiency they could be worth a try.

Be careful about using steel wool on oak. It is very easy for an odd strand to get caught in the grain; it will then eventually rust, causing horrible black stains in the oak which are notoriously difficult to get out. Instead of steel wool use sandpaper, foam sanding pads, or Scotch pads...

I suspect that Scrit's characteristically elegent solution will prove a tad elaborate for an inexperienced woodworker. Personally, I'd suggest that you use stub tenons which meet each other in the middle of the upright with a mitre. Then, if you really want to see the tenon coming...

With scrap wood, old pallets etc, your only cost is the wire mesh, some felt, and the ironmongery - say £15 tops. To buy the wood new (and why would you do that for a cr@ppy rabbit hutch?) allow another £20 or so

Get yourself one of these from B&Q; With a bit of practice with your gun technique, one of these gizmos, and some builders' baby wipes (again from B&Q) you'll be getting professional results in no time. Tip - smear a bit of washing up liquid on the plastic thingy before use.

Any local glass merchant will be able to cut your panels to size. Go for laminated glass - it meets the required safety standards but is a lot cheaper than toughened in small quantities. Laminated glass is available in either bronze or grey smoked. As far as the leading is concerned - buy a...