Recent content by braddock71

Vicky - I don't think you can use that controller on a combi (least that's what I've been told). What you can do is call them up and say you've had your boiler changed (sweet-talk em a bit) and need a combi contoller unit. they'll send you one out for free (they did with me - although no...

if someone can advise if anything doesn't look legal, then I can go back to the original electrician. If it's just best practice, then I'll probably have to get someone in to fix it for me. If latter then I'll make sure I communicate what has happened to both electrician and his potential...

Nah, not on the registered competent person site..

nothing really on there but i've only got page 1 of 2 (although don't seem to remember getting another page, tbh. is possible i did). it does mention a Part P. Registration number which is completed tho and I have address. Just need to know what points I should mention in my letter, if anything...

hmm, there's me thinking the unit is one of the better parts of the job. If someone can assist in identifying the issues with this, I will write or contact the spark again (even though has been awhile since this was done - August this year). The labelling was non existent when completed so I'm...

yeah, you're right but i'm not going to go though all that hassle, just want it sorting. here are some pics about the bad workmanship (well, in my eyes anyway - maybe i'm being picky but doubt it). Not sure the reason for this hole directly above switch? I'm not too bothered as this room...

thanks - I'll get someone to help me trace. no chance i'm getting the people who did it in. I had (what I thought was a) good spark who sorted my cooker circuits out and replaced old style fusebox to new but the rewire was terrible - he got 2 other lads in to do it. They cut through my doorbell...

Hi all, Not sure why this happened since the lighting re-wire (missing earth) and once this was done, the old socket seemed to be tripping the circuit so it was presumably just switched off (was an old one with an on/off switch). I've recently removed this switch and put in a new one but...

thanks for reply. I did do the 4th wall on the chimney. Also, the blocks in the loft above this damp patch don't seem to be damp from my reader - they are pretty much the same as other blocks on the other side of the house. There is salt showing there so am wondering if there was a fairly major...

updated picture in glorious technicolor... Wall-2 by braddock71 posted 27 Sep 2016 at 10:13 PM

Still got this damp patch and is tough to work out what to do! We had whole room reskimmed and against my better judgement, I decided that the plasterers knew more than me about what to do so left them to it. Sure enough, this patch hasn't dried out so have chopped it out to see what's...

Thanks Woody. I reckon it was a flue issue then from your comments. I might pull the flue out and cap the chimney at some point so I can check but first I'd like to fix the room. So pull off affected plaster then render with sand/cement/lime, then reskim be enough? (that's assuming no more damp).

thanks Vinn - there isn't anything to photo on the inside really, just a hole where the old cast iron flue connected in to the ceiling - is single story (utility room at the back of the garage). 2 flues? just 1, i think. Probably not been swept but no longer in use - metal cowl on the top...

Hi - having put in the Dryzone and some water seal on the chimney, the plaster inside is showing as 25% on my damp meter (from previous 33% as mentioned originally - been measuring same place). The boiler has now gone so has to be coming from roof, as thought. I might get the wall boarded up...

Ok, put dryzone in 3 sides of the chimney, 1 brick above the flashing. Dehumidifier doing a good job in the loft so will see if it reduces the dampness and then replaster the damaged bit. Hope it works!