Recent content by Canny

current plan includes running a rope to support the wire from. Any idea on the minimum height? Current plan has it leaving the building at 10-12ft up rising to the tower at around 30-35ft. Water ptoection at either end has already been considered, but I do realise we will need to sort it...

Thanks again for the replies. A generator would not really be practical unless it were small enough to carry by hand. Anything that needs a vehicle is simply not possible due to ground conditions and the land owner not wanting any vehicles driving across the area. The lights will be...

Thanks for the responses. There will be an RCD. Lamp life isn't an issue, we have spare lamps and they only have to last 6-8 hours twice so are almost disposable. My main concern is safety, effectivenss (can test before they're needed to make sure its bright enough) and not tripping the...

I need an electrician to put me right on this. I am helping organise a small outdoor private event soon. We are going to need lighting over an area and have a selection of floods to do the job. Unfortunately the best position for the lights is approximately 60-70m from the nearest mains...

If it is crimp connections though, then as long as it has been done correctly with the right tools (ratchet crimper), I believe this is acceptable. A real spark will soon correct me here if I am wrong about this.

In my experiences, no true expert on any matter has ever directly identified themselves as such as it is not their own opinion on this that counts. I am also reminded of a comment made by a very successful friend of mine about "experts". It just about sums up my feelings of so-called...

Thanks, looks like replacing it with 10mm is the best option then.

I need to replace a shower of unknown wattage, the cable is 6mm T&E and has the following approximate run 2m behind plaster 3-4m loose between ceiling and upstairs floorboards 1.5m behind plaster to switch 1.5m behind plaster to loft space 2-3m clipped to upper surface of roof joists...

From my uderstanding, that experiment should have tripped any RCD, not because of current flowing through the earth wire (at least not directly) but because of a lack of current returning along Neutral unless the RCD is not sensitive enough to trip with a 0.25A difference. If I have my theory...

I'm not sure if its a good or bad thing that the people who will know the excuses to use in these situations will be the ones most likely to have done it all right in the first place and got the appropriate certification to prove it.

I'm absolutely amazed (or horrified really) that anyone could have the knowledge and (in)competence to make the circuits work without understanding the purpose, function and usage of the breakers.

One test you could do for continuity without opening the CU is to first switch off the power, remove one of the ring sockets and use your multimeter on its continuity test setting to check that both live cables (seperated once the socket is removed) test positively for continuity, then the same...

Since I have been able to access the site again (was that following the wharehouse move) I have to say that everything has been fine for me, even for a cheapo spirit level thrown in free on one order (lucky really as my previous one was stood on and damaged when I helped a friend with his...

From what I see on the picture, I would assume A and B translate to the 2 COM terminals, with A1,B1 and A2,B2 translating to L1 and L2 (not marked on picture but should be on the switch) to the appropriate switch. Test this with a multimeter first by checking the continuity paths match when...

Does this work both ways? Is it acceptable for example to replace/alter part of a lighting circuit wired in 1.0mm T&E with 1.5mm T&E? I would have thought using cable above that required wouldn't cause problems but am I missing something here?