Recent content by carlramsay

These taps often leak from the gland nut as well, where you turn on and off the tap, sometimes the gland nut works its way loose. This is the nut directly under the tap handle. this will not cause the tap to leak from the spout but will leak from the base of the handle. Just needs a little nick up.

however having just read message again, if the pipes are hot upto the valves then it would possibly be an issue with the valves as stated already. If you have checked the pins on the trvs then it maybe time to change. However previous post could still be worth a go.

hi, may need to balance the system a bit, turn down valves else where on the lockshields/trvs. Try a turn of most of the rads leaving one or so open and then this may draw the heat to the ones not working. then balance out the system re instating other rads slowly.

Hi, got a samsung 40" LCD 18mths old just running of a normal aerial no freeview box /sky etc. I have a red ghosting that appears down the left hand side of the picture the rest of the screen is fine bar a fine white line that goes across the screen half way up. This is always on starting up...

messed this post right up. Yes your right its 10 m m cable and in fact a 10. 5 kW shower. Sorry. Is a 20 amp dp switch ok for .10.5 kW or bigger one required.

thought as much thanks for quick response

would a 40/45/50 amp DP switch be better?

Hi there , was wondering if anyone could shed some light.. Had a 11.5kw shower and started getting a fishy smell from the switch.. On investigating noticed some burning on the neutrals on the cables. One of the neutrals and one of the lives were not tight in the connectors guess this could have...

thanks for the response, ventilation is the key this has also been mentioned by people. I would like to put in a vent of some type but whats the best for allowing heat to stay in the room and air to circulate. Dont really want to go down the route of humidifier as cost of running and machine...

Hi, I have a problem in my daughters room, when it gets cold there is a build up of damp on the wall. This is due to the fact one of the external walls is solid block, the other is cavity and the other 2 are internal, obviously the damp is on the solid wall. this is not rising damp as no...

well it looks like no PVA, a good brush and wallboard adhesive cheers guys

yes also having the same problem, just listed a new thread. What was the outcome?? you didnt move did you? think my problem is chimney related , aerial wang , but cannot believe an aerial can make that noise. Spent an hour on the roof the other day and noise came back 4 days later...... Mind...

looks like a good list, only thing I would add is plumbers mate around the base of taps to avoid water getting under. And if you really want the taps to never to move and create a seal> plumbers gold. Good time to fit ballvalves as well , so they can be isolated without shutting the water off to...

is it struggling to get to the heat exchanger or struggling to get through it ?

how long have you had the boiler, could the heat exchanger be getting scaled up.