The place I got the spur recommended coach screws M10x180mm 3x @£2each. Pilot hole of 8mm
The post is 100x100 and so is the spur.
I can get a BZP M10x220 coach bolt for £1.82 each.
It's a gate post so 2cm sticking out either is going to catch somebody.
I think I'm going to go for the coach...
Thanks, I actually got to the same conclusion and will be buying a concrete spur later.
What are the best fixing for the spur to the post? screws or bolts all the way through?
Was thinking putting a bolt through the post to keep the cracks closed and stop the twist.
Thanks all, I didn't realise thermostat would have a long probe attached like that. I will see it I can get it out and find suitable replacement.
I assume the probe is inside an air/water tight sleeve?
I don't know if the "solid tail" would get in the way, I think it might which is why I initially thought the terminal might spin around, but it is solid.
I think the thermostat is fixed in place somehow so not sure it will easily move out of the way.
Why would the plumber have left this Neutral terminal facing the wrong way? surely it would not have been wired with the terminal screw facing the thermostat and thus inaccessible?
This thing is difficult to access as it is on top of the cylinder in a kitchen cupboard, but was going to try...
not much use cutting the post to size if the 3 mortices are not standard distance apart.
The existing fence has 3 rails and the mortice slots are 200mm, 790mm and 1380mm when measured from the top.
I'm looking online and none of the suppliers give mortice measurements so that's why I'm asking...
Fitted a feather edge timber fence about 10 years ago and always had a problem with the gate post not the hinge side) which had a split down it which opened in the summer and closed up in the winter, it would twist which left the gate sticking and the bolt only sliding easily for most of the...
Thanks, might be the "old" normal, but good to know it is some kind of "normal" ;) . The only reason I even thought about using the immersion is because we are on Octopus agile, and sometimes it would be cheaper to heat the water on electric and we have no backup if anything happened to the gas...
Well I have 2 white and 2 red fuses only, the red ones being on upstairs ringmain and downstairs ringmain. The heating used run off oil, but was converted to gas sometime (at least 25 yrs ago) which I guess is when the immersion was added.
I just looked at the fusebox labels again and it says...
by "junction box" I'm referring to the spaghetti connections box in the first picture. any other junctions are under floorboards or in walls
The CH cylinder and all these connections are in the kitchen and probably off the same downstairs ring as the 3 double sockets and single with a red...
So, while not best practice, can the immersion come "off the junction box" or is that going to be too much load on the circuit? I really don't know if anything else shares the same cable from the fuse box...
Would I be better just putting a plug/cable back on the immersion as it's only for...
Don't think we ever used the immersion and the wife now thinks that it used to be on a standard 13A UK plug on a long cable that was coiled up on top of the cylinder for "emergency" hot water. Probably the plumber didn't want to put it back as it was not sufficient.
Nothing nearby that I can see. I expected to find one and just hook it back up.
The "consumer unit" is an old style Wylex wired fuse box with 4 circuits. upstairs and downstairs, ring and lights.
Don't know which the input on this junction box is connected to...
I'm only assuming the immersion...
I had a plumber years ago in to fix a leak at the HW cylinder and he ended up replacing the whole thing.
The immersion element was moved to the new cylinder but never wired back in.
I would like get the immersion wired again and on a smart switch which I thought should be a simple DIY job but...