Recent content by chickenlips

Wasnt trying to troll, genuinely trying to help. I've been a Truss & Engineered joist designer for over 25 years, worked for a number of manufacturers, used Mitek, Wolf and Alpine software. Dealt with remedial details like this and far worse, not once have I sent it out to a SE. Ive always...

You would be better going to the manufacturer who designed the roof in the 1st place. All the details should be on the CE tag. Mitek is the company who supplies the software and plates and the engineering. The manufacturer will be able to pass the design onto mitek for a remedial. You could...

Not wanting to take a topic here so I apologise, but I can confirm the software we use has the capabilities to remove what ever we wish. For remedial work, i.e something like the above we would push this onto whoever we are buying the plates from (who also supply the software) Mitek, Wolf or...

I wouldn't say its an ancient roof as its using CE tags so you can identify where the trusses are from and contact details. Furthermore, the truss manufacturer will be able to use the services of the engineering software providers, to prove what is/isnt possible. (the ones who provide the...

You would be better off going to the company that has manufactured the trusses and asking them if what you want to do is possible. There is a tag on the apex plate of the truss, that will tell you where they are from. Contact them before seeking a SE, most SE's will not touch trussed roof...

Engineered joists do not require doubling up underneath stud walls, only the use of partition noggins. They look like they have been installed from the pictures. No herringbone struttting or solid strutting for I-beam Engineered joists are required either. My guess would would be that...

For fixings, square twist nails always. screws sheer easily and should never be used. You will need 150mm air gap underneath the floor and insulate between the joists with foil backed insulation (celotex or kingspan) is commonly used wich can be friction fitted.

I'd use 22mm chipboard flooring but go for a phenolic faced chipboard (Egger Protect or Cabershield) with D4 adhesive glued and screwed. When used with D4 glue and fitted properly this is far more water resistant than standard P5 chipboard.

Proctor is just a brand of acoustic battens, there are many forms available at a range of different sizes. I wouldnt worry to much about the width, it would be the depth that is crucial.

Actually headroom for landing area in a loft conversion can be as low as 1.9mts. Although most bco say 2.0mts you can get away with 1.9mt.

Yes they can be, although generally, you will find most traditional joists are specified at 400mm centres, 600mm centres are more commonly used in engineered joists (I joist or open web).

You could use a phenolic faced chipboard T&G flooring such as Weyroc 'Protect' or 'Cabershield' (these are brand names). Both have a waterproof protected face which are alot better than normal P5 chipboard flooring. Go for 22mm thick even if joists are at 400mm centres. Use either of them...

What span and height would you be looking at ?

220mm will be a 215mm wall which is 2 brick with approx 15mm gap.

You could look at going a grade higher than C24, TR26 ? It may give you that bit extra assurance your after rather than having to double. However, Tony's advice of asking who ever is supplying the glazing what the max deflection is would make the decision alot easier. ?!?