Recent content by chippyphil

I think you would probably be looking at a pair of bespoke doors from a local joinery company. You could get a faux panel effect by using beading on a plain door (door blank).

I have S/W T&G in my bathroom which only has a light wash of emulsion on it. It has moved slightly, but The effect is not really noticeable. I would also suggest MDF if you are going to paint it as it looks the same but is much more stable

It's possible that the cylinder connecting bar is too long on the cylinder, or a bit rough on the end and getting jammed up in the mech. Just one possible cause

From experience, I've found that often if you go in too high you don't get the job. As for ripping off little old ladies? Shame on those unscrupulous persons :evil:

When I said I'd put the shelves up in my brothers bedroom. So I set about the wall with my dads new hammer drill and wondered why the wall was hard to drill for a bit then it seemed really easy. I put all the shelves up, took me nearly all day with all the wall tracks and that. I had a tidy...

As space blanket is an encapsulated product, I would personally try and squeeze it in. If you have to cut it, you could cut the length first, then roll it up again to cut the width.

Trying to secure ply to the floor would likely end up in serious frustration :wink: The ply wouldn't help with the lumps and bumps really, and would end up with voids where the low points are. Masonry nails are not likely to even make a dent in the concrete! The only sure-fire way of...

Just as a side note, MDF can tend to de-laminate on the ends as the grooves to accept the hidden supports effectively reduce the thickness of the shelf by up to 50%

They are an odd size :wink: What sort of design/pattern are you looking for, and what material?

I used to do the old box sash rip-outs that way a few years ago and most people thought it looked OK. TBH I wasn't really thinking of the aesthetic, but it seemed to do the job. Another option is to use 6mm MDF strips to cover the gap, then put a a small architrave on top of that around the...

Seems to have fixed itself. Voodoo or black magic? Who knows :wink: Thanks for the replies

The problem with flushing the oilways is that you may dislodge crud that then doesn't come right out. This can then find a new home in smaller oilways and clog it up further. Regular oil changes are best :wink:

As far as I know it was a brand new item. I thought it was odd that it suddenly stopped working when I bled the rad (i didn't suspect the PCB) I do have an update though. I have been looking through some of the earlier posts and seeing if the solutions there would help. I have turned the HW...

ERRRR :oops: Do you mean the warning lights on the front? If so it has a red at the top and a green just under it

I usually find that a big flat blade screwdriver inserted into the mech then twisted back and forth does the trick. But if the Mechanism is too far gone it may be a job for your local PVC window specialist. HTH