Recent content by ChrisJP

Yes it is - when installed as the house is constructed. But in an existing house it requires all the floors to be dug up and then relaid and most people don't want this sort of total upheaval, which will probably require them to move out of the house while it takes place.

I agree. I had a larger version of the Milano tubular radiator in my main bedroom and, although its BTU rating was adequate, it failed to provide decent heat. I've now replaced it with a Type 22 convecting radiator of similar overall dimensions and this is much better at heating the room.

You might also need to unscrew the thin nut and withdraw the fill valve unit into the cistern. That way you'll be able to lift the cistern straight up with no obstructions. Have some large polythene washers to hand for re-assembly to replace the existing packing under the thin nut.

WD40 is NOT a penetrant - it is a water displacement substance. You need to use a proper penetrating oil like PlusGas or GT85

There is normally also a "doughnut" rubber seal ring between the bottom of the cistern and the top of the pan. You may be able to use the existing one, but gettring a new one of the same size is adviseable

The fix will be to cut out the leaking section of pipe, or remove the leaking joint and replace with new pipe or a new joint, or both.

If this 22mm pipe (or maybe a joint on it) is leaking, then you have no alternative but to get it repaired, whatever the access problems might be. With the amount that is apparently leaking, it not only will give you high bills but it might also be undermining your house foundations.

You need to find out and then explain whether it's the flush valve at the base of the cistern that is leaking (assuming you don't have an older siphon flush), or whether the fill valve is not shutting off properly so the cistern is overflowing. Modern cisterns overflow into the toilet pan, so...

Ahh....that hopper would have served as a vent and prevented the siphoning. Did a plumber change the hopper to unvented pipes? If so, did he warn you about the likelihood of siphoning?

If the outside "cupboard" (is it really an outhouse?) is waterproof, then actually it is a pretty good place for the boiler, as long as the pipes leading to and from it are well insulated. What exactly is your concern?

Yes, just Google oil storage tank installers with your postcode and you'll get some local small businesses who can supply and fit new oil storage tanks. Oil delivery companies will just sub-contract a new tank job maybe to one of these providers and just add their own markup to the price they quote.

Well, that's 3 possibilities! Which just illustrates that no-one can specify a particular hole size. You need to measure the outside diameter of the mixer tap fixing boss and cut the hole to that diameter.

He obviously couldn't be bothered to do the job right, so just fobbed you off. Filling the hole properly will not "just come out".

What a way for your "plumber" to leave the job! Did the large hole appear as this plumber dragged the old radiator off the wall? If so, it was down to him to fill it in to make it good. As others have said, fill the hole to within a few mms of the outer surface with cement mortar. Then finish to...

If you can buy exactly the same radiator but in black then, yes, the brackets and water connections will line up. Otherwise you'll need to do some very careful measurement of whatever non-identical radiator you plan to buy, and it's unlikely that everything will line up perfectly. I don't think...