Recent content by powernun

Thanks, I'll keep it in mind. Maybe I'll do a test to see how well it holds up, since on this wall, only the bottom half will have tiles; the top half will be painted. On another note, looking at Marmox's instructions for plastering (for the top half of the wall I want painted), it looks like...

Thank you for your replies and yes it definitely makes more sense to keep the plug and just fit a 3A fuse in it. I especially like the fact I can hook the boiler to a battery backup this way. I did a bit more research on why the gas engineer would want an FCU, and I found out that it's...

Thank you both, Marmox looks exactly like what I was looking for. For fixing, I was planning to use the same technique as for the rest of the bathroom boards: SBR first, then adhesive expanding foam (most likely Soudal plasterboard adhesive foam), and the mechanical fixings they recommend. I...

The gas engineer that came around told me that when they will replace the boiler (it's a very old one and it was getting serviced) they would fit a 3A FCU so I figured I might as well do it now to have it ready for the future. Also I need both gangs of the new socket free for other appliances.

Hi all, We have stripped our bathroom walls back to brick and are lining them with NoMorePly fibre cement boards. The reason we went for cement boards was for the moisture resistance and for supporting the large-format tiles we’re planning (90 x 90 cm). The tricky part is the exterior wall...

I am looking to wire my combi boiler with a Drayton Wiser thermostat. As part of this, I am also looking to make the following improvements to the current wiring: Replace the boiler's twin and earth with 3-core flex, as twin and earth is not compliant for high vibration and heat areas Replace...

Yeah, that can create quite a bit of noise. I find using ThermaWrap works quite well for both insulating and cushioning the pipe against walls/concrete/other pipes. There are some other pieces of original timber touching the ground (cement ground) where moisture has wicked up, like you said...

I am rerouting some 15mm cold water copper pipes under my suspended timber floor. As I am running insulation between the joists, I have found the best way to route these would be through ventilation openings in sleeper walls. I am planning to lag the pipes and support them with talon clips...

Ok will use a hacksaw for this. Would that be done the same way as a copper pipe? Deburring cone inside and outside and emery cloth for the outside to make it shiny?

Right makes sense. For now I'll definitely get all the plaster off and I'll see what I'm dealing with on the rest of it. That looks good. I have to say though the state of your bricks and pointing looks much better than mine though :mrgreen:

Makes sense. I have started laying 32mm MDPE for eventually replacing all the lead pipes in the house, for now though I just wanted to get rid of this weird branching as it's in the way. I thought of using lead-loc but it's my first time working with lead, so I figured the Philmac one looked...

Unfortunately, the plaster itself is wonky. I have removed all the tiles and put my large spirit level on the wall, and it has large bumps and valleys all over the place. Also, after some replies here, I took a closer look and found quite a few hollow-sounding spots, which makes me think the...

I have been renovating my ground floor bathroom and while taking the walls back to brick, I found my mains pipe buried in the wall, going up to the eaves. This prompted me to follow the layout of the mains supply and found that although it starts at the ground floor, instead of supplying the...

The current plaster is actually fairly strong. The only reason I am removing it is that the cement board manufacturer recommends fitting it directly onto the brick instead of plaster, as the plaster may not be strong enough to hold the cement board and tiles. I am definitely up for doing this...

Thanks, that makes sense. Just checking, would I not need to repoint because the cement boards with the adhesive would practically hold the existing pointing in place?