Recent content by cosmarchy

"relatively inflexible" in that it tends to coil back up and doesn't particularly hold straight in order to get rigid insulation on and shove down ducting. Not sure whether something like hot water will make it flexible enough to lay out without it trying to coil back up and to get the...

unfortunately the insuduct wouldn't work in this instance as I dont have enough wall space to install. I did find the SES Water pdf and my situation is much like diagram 3 but I have approximately 6 to 7 meters of travel internally over rough ground hence the ducting. I have found various...

Hi, I need to install a run of MDPE from inside to outside up to the water meter running under a suspended timber floor which will eventually replace a piece of lead pipe. I understand it needs to be a minimum of 750mm below the ground level and I'm looking for advice on insulation and...

I'll give that a go. It's the thought of 'wedging' a thickish piece of metal in a virtually non existent hole and then finding I've wrecked the plastic frame :oops:

Thanks ronniecabers. I'll give that a go. Just a but paranoid about damaging the plastic since the scraper end is rather thick and the gap around the bead us non existent!!

Hi, Can anyone recommend a good tool for removing Rehau beading? I have seen a number of examples with people using all manner of different tools but the gap between the beading and frame is so small, I was beginning to think they it was all one piece!! I have one of these which some people...

What about if I were to double or triple the red lines so that they are effectively forming something like 6"x9" and then run 2"x9" in the direction of the yellow lines as this is the shorter span? Any advantages in doing that?

Thanks. I'm not looking to put much weight other than typical loft items but more concerned with supporting the weight of the timber itself. Due to the awkward design of the loft I cannot go between the shortest spans which would have been ideal.

Empty space in the roof so was looking to do something as simple as this. The yellow lines would be the ledger boards as these are adjoining walls to neighbouring properties. Depending on where this sits in the roof space, I may have to go around the chimney breast. Shall do, thanks I...

Hi, I'm looking for some options with installing some joists for my loft. I have a loft space which is approx 5m x 3m (and tall enough to stand) and want to hang some joists to make use of the storage space. I don't fancy cutting holes in the walls as firstly they are partition walls...

Rot is the biggest problem we've found with the doors and windows. They're probably not original but certainly the condition of something of that age!! UPVC At least has the advantage of rot resistance albeit having other issues...

@mrrusty unfortunately they house has already been refurbished (to a degree) previously and has lost much of the original features already. Whilst I am putting UPVC in at the rear where it faces new builds, I am being careful to use something sympathetic to the house itself. I will be putting...

Thanks @crank39 Sounds like a good plan to me :D

Hi, I have old wooden sash windows which I'm replacing with newer UPVC windows. The house was built in the early 1900's and as such has solid brick walls around 9" thick. There is an excessively large section in the old sash windows where the weights were located: When I remove the sash...

Ok, many thanks. I'll look in to these and see what I can get hold of. The mortar is original I believe. Well, so far as it isn't cement mortar and is soft and has a light colour so suspect it is lime from the original build.