Recent content by cwhaley

I'd considered that, but I suppose I was looking to see if somebody else had been there and done it! The first baffle (a metal frame with a vermiculite brick insert) obviously restricts the pull of air and will stay, but it's the second cast iron baffle restricting it even further. I'll run it...

Thanks for the reply. I have two old Victorian sash windows which I crack open when lighting, but will open them more as an experiment. The stoves are served by a controllable air vent behind them (outside walls), which I hoped would help. I start the stoves with a strong fire made from strips...

I have ran wood burning stoves for 10 years and had no problems. I've always had the flue swept and inspected once or twice yearly and I only burn dry timber. I decided to swap my old stoves for two new DEFRA wood burners as they are slightly larger and more efficient. I also had new 5" liners...

Will probably just heat it up in the forge and flatten it with a lump hammer. That's forward-thinking and pride in your work. I could access it from the other side as there's only one neighbour and the wall is only 5ft high, but can't really chisel easily from above.

Thanks, hadn't thought of that. I'll try and find some kicking about with no knots in it. It's because the tube is hollow. It will produce a lot more reverberation than a solid cast length of iron. I might hammer it flat instead. Was just trying to see if anybody else had been in the same boat!

When my garage was built (before my ownership) the builders allowed all the brick snots to fall to the bottom of the wall and become trapped between a boundary wall. These snots trap large amounts of water and cause serious damp in the bottom few courses of bricks, as they are obviously holding...

Thought I'd update this for closure... The issue was found to be a partly-collapsed drain under a manhole cover next door. We are the start of a drain which runs to next door and then into the street. I think the heavy rain had taken debris into the drain (as our surface water goes into the...

I've grown carrots in tubs for years at home with good success, however this year is the first I've done it on the allotment in the ground. Grew a few rows from seed and have noticed these come up.in the rows. At first I thought they were carrots as I'm growing purple ones this year. Now I...

So the gate is fixed and in position, as per picture (ignore the flummoxed cat..) Hinge pins greased up the gate opens and closes nicely. However when it was open the other day, a gust of wind blew it closed and with no stop or catch, it carried on inwards and bent one of the hinges. I've since...

Thanks both @SFK and @Tigercubrider -- Gatemate is the brand I went for. Going to fit it in the lower corner where the timber will accommodate it nicely at ~60mm depth. Garage is a state due to various projects but currently waiting for the final coat to dry.

Yes 3/4" of an inch either side. The gate is just held loosely in position in those pictures.

Thank you, yes I've got a spring loaded caster at the ready. That thought came to me when I realised how heavy this gate is..!

That's brilliant I can't believe I didn't find this before. 70mm of 'throw' should be ample to reach the ground from the end post. Thanks for finding.

Built a gate for the driveway as it was much-needed. It's since been undercoated and had a further three coats of top coat. Only job left is to put the door furniture on. It has to be locked by a drop bolt/surface bolt (the one pictured) -- it cannot be locked into the wall on the left of my...

I think the key is going to be airflow. Although I do have the windows open permanently, there aren't any windows I can open at the front. I think controllable vents at the front and rear would help direct fresh air through it as you've described.