Recent content by daverk

Just in case this might be helpful to someone else with a single pipe system (or part single pipe) here's the outcome to the problem I first posted here last year: - there was no sludge in the rads - they all had standard Thermostatic Radiator Valves, which are designed for 2-pipe systems...

Earlier this year I had some questions about my CH (I moved to this property last year) which was not working on all rads. The original post was here //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=209351 and I had some helpful comments from stem. I'm just about to do the work. It is mixed 2...

Many thanks to all of you who have responded to this. I'm going to give up on the neon screwdriver because there is a risk that it can give a misleading indication - and I'll try one of those Martindale Voltage Indicators.

Definitely doesn't contain a battery, and I presume it truly is a neon - it has a 'filament'-shaped light which illuminates when the blade is placed on a mains voltage, and it is a bit dimmer if you take the thumb off the button. I doubt if I was particularly well earthed, lying prone in the...

Could be. I still think that the humidity had something to do with it. Anyhow, I think I'll ditch the neon screwdiver, get a voltage indicator/test lamp, and I'm thinking of doing a City & Guilds too. Thanks for being constructive about this, it's appreciated.

It's an old place and although most circuitry is not too mad, there are some strange things. When I can find exactly where it spurs from (probably a connection box in another roof area - I think that circuit is a radial rather than a ring) I'll whip that final section of cabling out, because...

Yes it was disconnected from what it used to feed. After it was moved, that end was not connected to anything but was terminated in a 3-terminal Ashley box (with a sleeved earth); and when power was restored, it was live once more (supplied from a RCD-protected socket circuit, and nothing...

The main DP switch was off, of course. And the DP isolator which I've just had fitted to be doubly sure. And the RCD for good measure. I used the neon screwdriver to check that power was there again after switching on again, but on that occasion I got 3 apparent lives. I have been reading...

Here's an odd one for you older and wiser electricians out there: Was in the loft having pulled a disused supply to the garage back into the attic. Used a test screwdriver to test it for live & not live before moving it, and again not live & live once it had been brought into the loft to...

That's a thought. One of the sheds is run from a 16A non-protected MCB to a 63A RCD protecting 6A shed lights and 16A shed sockets, so a previous occupant or electrician has done something similar before.

Many thanks - very helpful. That flexible configuration Hager board looks good and would just about fit the meter cupboard. The 10 existing circuits on the CU are: 5 Protected from 80A RCD: 40A Shower, 32A Oven, 32A Sockets, 32A Sockets, 32A Kitchen Sockets 5 Unprotected from Main...

Thanks ericmark I take your point about costs and because the supply is live to the main switch it's a no-brainer anyway - a Part P man would have to do this. I'm trying to get a feel for the "right" (and cheap-ish) way to go, though, because there seem to be many different opinions...

Well, I wouldn't do it myself, because currently the supply from the meter/main fuse is live directly to the main DP switch on the CU, so I wouldn't be mucking around with that myself. I saw about this on the IET forum, so assumed (perhaps wrongly!) it was do-able...

Just to add - clearly there would need to be a Henley Block fitted upstream to provide separate feeds to both RCDs, otherwise there wouldn't be discrimination.