Recent content by di9

Thanks for the reply. On that floor, you get a view of the sea, so there is a point to having it be glass there. If push comes to shove, I will drill new holes, but I would like to know if the existing holes can be reused - I'm just worried about getting new brackets lined up correctly, with a...

I need to replace the mountings/brackets that used to hold a security glass panel (approx 2m x 1m) that fenced off part of the back yard. The glass panel was pulled right out and smashed by the wind, and the mountings/brackets/screws got twisted in the process. 5 brackets used to hold the...

You don't sound confrontational at all, and I appreciate very much you taking the time to offer an explanation, without which I would have been none the wiser. So thank you. The internet is often a good source of info, but sometimes, as in this case, it probably wasn't. When that fails, I turn...

Thanks both of you for your replies. I think both paints are probably not up to scratch - I didn't buy them so I can't be sure. It's looking like I'm finally one more coat away from getting a uniform finish, so that's about 6 coats. But on the second wall I pictured, which joins to the first...

The patchy areas have had 4 or 5 undiluted coats, which is why I'm scratching my head. Good to know diluted paint is a way to prep though. Thank you. I'm beginning to think both paints I tried are just really bad quality, but confirmation from someone would be very helpful.

What am I doing wrong? I've read a few posts on patchy paint, but I'm not sure what the exact cause is for me. I'm trying to paint this kitchen wall white. So far, I've: . Applied 2 coats of watered down paint (to the consistency of milk) to the entire wall which I understood from Googling...

No, I've no idea what it is. Knowing became less important once I was able to remove them. But it may become important again when I get round to refitting the drawers, but from what I've gathered it should be reasonably straightforward to get them back in. Good of you to follow up, though. Thanks!

I solved it. For anyone coming across this in the future, here's what I did. I trawled through "how to remove kitchen drawer" videos on youtube. There are different types, so it was well worth watching them. Mine didn't enitrely match the drawers I'd seen, but I picked up enough to gamble...

I need to remove one or two of these drawers to do some work on the wall behind, but I can't see how to get them out. I'm guessing there's some sort of removable latch on the roller guides hidden somewhere, because they don't seem to be the sort where you pull and lift out. How can I remove...

@EFLImpudence Brilliant! Thank you so very very much!!!

I think the main question I have right now is if it's safe to wire in the new hob to give it a test? (So temporarily wire it just like the old one, in the very fist pic.) Summary as I've understood things so far: - The new hob is 7.4kW, the old one 7.2kW. - The old hob has been used for 12...

Clearly you don't eat anywhere near enough crispy bacon! :giggle:

Great question. Just about managed to get my phone in there for a pic, but it looks touch and go at 7.2kW: So the new one is 200W more than the old one. Is it worth trying it? If it goes south, will the breaker trip or am I likely to fry something?

Very helpful, thanks. So the question becomes whether "C25" does indeed mean it's on a 25A breaker. Can anyone confirm? If it is 25A then I guess my options are to get that and possibly the wiring upgraded, or try to source a lower rated hob? No idea what's standard these days in terms of...

It's not a "portable jobbie." The new one arrived today. It's one of these with 3 burners: It doesn't come with a plug, so that answers one question, but I was horrified to see 5 wires instead of 3! To add to my horror, 2 of those wires come pre-joined in one crimp. I suppose I should read...