Recent content by DIY-AMATEUR

Anyone? ;)

Thanks for replying. I actually emailed that company earlier but sadly they couldnt help with the chrome finish i want. If i cant source them i might even look into having the coating stripped on my existing hinges and redone in chrome.

Hi all. I am really struggling to identify these hinges to replace them with chrome versions along with the rest of the hardware on my composite door. Can any of you point me in the right direction? They initially look very similar to ERA Challenger 3D items but mine have inline screw holes...

A combination it is then! Thanks mate.

A builder nipped around last night to have a look at the lintel and he said if he were doing it that he would leave everything as is and just pack the 30mm tapering to 0mm gap all the way across with slate hammered in. I would just like a second opinion on that please v's dry packing with sharp...

Thanks for that. Just for clarification use sharp sand and not soft red builders sand?

Thanks for the reply. I had read about dry packing but didnt know if that would work at the 10mm end of the gap?

Hi all. Ive got my bearing points level for my concrete lintel but this now leaves a tapering gap of 30mm - 10mm between the top of the lintel and the brickwork over due to the new lintel being level in a subsided wall. I was going to remove the next course of brick above and replace with cut...

I can cut the concrete blocks with a whizzer as long as they are ok to use infilling above the lintel then. Ive just seen the galv mesh in screwfix so i will throw some of that on when im bonding it up ready for skimming thanks.

Yes mate, i put a screw in wall tie on every course. Bit of a pain getting the blocks in without knocking all the mortar back out though!!! What mesh are you referring to, just scrim tape when plastering or something fixed to the blockwork? What do you think about the cut down dense concrete...

I cant get hold of a 100mm lintel now due to the lead time for delivery as its not a stocked item. My thoughts now are to bring the new blockwork on the pic up level to the opposite side and then remove 1 course of brick above the lintel. Fit the 65mm lintel level on mortar beds and then whiz...

Its not even 2 full pieces of timber, the top one is 3 pieces, cowboy builders! I want concrete anyway mate as the timber one originally cracked and blew the plaster due to its expansion and contraction nature.

Hi all, still not got round to sorting this and now it turns out that when they removed the old glass panel next to the door and bricked it up they never tied it in. I thought there were verticle cracks due to them leaving the skim beads in so had a nice suprise when i found how loose it all was...

Hi. Thanks for your reply. Ive just measured the timber again and its actually 98mm so the 100mm would physically fit but then only allow a tight mortar bed on either the top or bottom. How would I fit this option correctly? The timber appears to be sat directly on the blocks with only mortar...

Ive had 4 previous houses with the same set up as yours. I always put my curtain poles up with these self drilling and tapping screws - https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/252491869702 Keep a good firm pressure on the back of your drill/driver (fast speed) and...