Recent content by Doc M

I agree that there's no need for the extension tails. I'll be drilling new holes as I've re-tiled the bathroom. At the point after I've marked the bracket positions and undone the nuts to remove the rad, I will have to lift the rad up and away from the wall. After drilling and inserting plugs...

The initial post is overly wordy and confusing, hence my subsequent post (#5). It appears that lowering the brackets is doable after the rad is attached to the valves which is what I'll be doing. My #5 post explains the problem as I understand it. I'm not a plumber so I may have overlooked...

@terryplumb your comment of "The brackets that hold the radiator can often be lowered by approximately 5 or 6 millimetres" pushed me in the right direction. If I can't move the pipework upwards just a little to attach the nuts to the valves (I can't) then I have to lower the rad onto the valves...

The pipework is copper microbore 10mm. The amount of play in the pipe isn't enough to attach the nuts to the valves. No wonder the previous homeowner ended up with all four wall clamps at a slight angle below the horizontal so he could drop the rad onto the valves and tighten the nuts. I came...

Apologies for making this post overly wordy. In a nutshell, that nut in first pic (that will be sticking out the bottom of the rad) has to not hit the valve when I offer the rad to the wall. So there's a gap of a few milli that I can't bridge as there's no play in the pipe. How to get the nut...

Sorry, but I don't know what you mean by that.

Hello Folks, I am in the process of swapping out an old chrome curved towel rail for a new taller one. I will use the existing valves. There is absolutely no vertical play in the pipe (as the microbore pipework is buried in a solid wall) making it difficult to attach the chrome towel radiator...

:)

To answer my own question, I used a wire brush to abrade the tiles. As we have no interest in reverting back to the existing large black shiny porcelain tiles, this solution works well for us. Thanks to those that replied! :-)

Aha! Now I understand. It seems this product can be used on non-porous surfaces like my porcelain tiles. I can't find any post or videos in the usual places where someone has actually used this for peel and stick tiles. However, I'm very grateful for your post as plenty of reviewers on...

Alas, I couldn't find any mention on the technical data sheet for prim grip that recommended for use on flexible vinyl PVC tiles.

Alas, too large an area to use a sealant/caulking gun. It'll be too messy with the adhesive squeezing out between the peel and stick planks. I'll have to use a spray that bonds two non-porous surfaces together. If I can find one... Failing that, I'll have to reluctantly overboard with ply and...

That reviewer that stated, "...this is a must!" is probably the review that I've misremembered. In that case, a wood floor (and not porcelain tiles) was used as a substrate to bond the peel and stick planks. I've overboarded with ply twice before with this kind of flooring and it's still stuck...

I've read every review for all versions of this product on B&Q. Alas, I cannot find the review I read on there some months ago about a customer who used a particular spray adhesive to bond these peel and stick planks to his porcelain tiles. I'm going to need more than an iron to bond two non...

Already attempted it. Stuck one plank down well for a few hours. Later in the day, the plank popped off the porcelain tiled surface. Without a doubt, I need some kind of adhesive that bonds well for two non porous surfaces. The surface is clean and totally flat. It'd be a real shame if I had to...