Recent content by doesitmatter

Thanks, it is 'before' the valves but not before the pipework leading to the valves. Plus, the distance to the valves from that pipework is 20cm at most. It joins up with the CH return at the bottom of a T, which meets the cylinder 20cm above. Knowing I can do it the way I suggest is a great...

As I am moving to an S plan, I thought I'd ask about automatic bypass valves, as there's a lot of info out there but the question I had, hasn't been answered. I've worked out a solution (image below) to include one which comes between, rather than before all zone valve piping (it's easier for...

Thank you so much, you've been so helpful and as you might have expected, I will be trying to get the S plan on the go now the solar guy came back and, without admitting fault, said a 2 port is used as a safety 'feature'. so if I can't find anyone, he will try and fit me in to fit one. How to...

Thanks, @Madrab. In all honesty, I don't share your complexity concerns but then I am coming from it from the, 'I already have a 3 port valve installed, it's all working and all I need to do is ensure it defaults to HW' camp. Also, I'm not looking at it compared to an S plan, which I definitely...

@flameport Just read this - No power to valve - all wires no voltage - Hot Water Only (Port B is opened) 240V on orange- HW only 240V on White & Orange - Hot Water & Heating (open to Port A & B) 240V on White & Grey & Orange - Heating only (open to Port A only) 240V on Grey only - Valve is held...

Worth noting, that no extra zones have been added and the unvented cylinder was added previously, though of course should have had a 2 port, which would've made life much easier for me! Your first paragraph confused me a little. You said it only lasts until HW is selected again and then said...

Thanks, I was worried about that but read that without power, the spring will trigger and return the mid position back to HW. If this is not correct, I will look for a different solution with ensures it does. As for the wiring, to turn on the UFH with separate thermostats connected to a...

Well, all done and we had 40 minutes of heat.....until the boiler packed up! Sigh! So that I can help anyone else, if you have a Y plan, mid position valve this is how you get it to work on a Heatmiser UH8 wiring centre. You need an SPDT relay with a NO connection (no NC needed). UH8 - LS goes...

I know you're correct but I am where I am and just needing to get the heating on. I also need to get the solar guy back to check his work and if he has messed up and needs to rectify, he will make an S plan very easy, as I can just install my own valve on the UH8.

Thanks all, especially @Madrab, I managed to get it connected up plumbing wise, and the pressure appears to be holding. I did have a subsequent question though about the electrical connection as despite saying they do 'emergency' appointments, I cannot get a heating engineer or electrician out...

Aye, that's what I thought and was tempted to get them myself but I keep reading how they can work but require ventilation so condensation can be 'pushed out', plus really need to take fresh air, not loft air, which when it's cold (when condensation is highest) isn't sensible so would require...

I assume these aren't MVHR units?

Hopefully, when Street Votes gets through Parliament, we'll see more of this via PD. Make friends with your neighbours!

Bloody article 4. I lobby govt for planning reform and many Conservation are protections are some of the stupidest things ever. I'm sorry to say that you may need to seek pain advice on this; however, I would give your councils Building Regs team a call. In my experience, they're always helpful.

Land is cheap, land with planning is expensive and even if you only have outline, it isn't a major issue on single plots....unless your council is a pain in the behind. Check the local self build policies, as some councils have bothered to make it easier for locals to build (in your case, gain...