Recent content by drdr

John well it is quite a distance from the board, and with two cables I figure it is twice the price as if I used 6mm I think you are right.

I am having a new kitchen and need to sort out the lighting. Currently it has five halogen 40w downlights and this is adequate, and we frequently use the dimmer. I will have to replace these five lights with six new downlights. It has been recommended that I move to LED lighting, which I know...

Thanks for that I am using a qualified electrician but the two I have spoken to have given different answers. There is a considerable difference in price between using 6 and 10mm cables. That is the reason for my question. I am having a completely new kitchen, as part of that I will go through...

I am about to install an oven, a combination oven/microwave and an induction hob. They draw 3.45kw, 3.65kw and 7.2kw respectively. I need to use 2 core plus earth cable for each. BUT I have been given conflicting information about the size of the cables. One person said 6mm and the other 10mm...

Well I got and installed the new unit. It works perfectly, wish I had asked the question as to whether it would work before purchasing the ST9100S. A lesson has been learned! Anyway, thank you all for your assistance.

Thank you all so much for your help. I will purchase the ST9400A, it is the most basic but does all that I need. Hopefully this one should work. Will let you know the outcome Thanks again

D_Hailsham - yes I did buy it from ebay. Basically I wanted to get an electronic timer (the old switchmaster was noisy) which I thought it more than adequate to control the hot water twice a day, I had not considered the diverter valve which jackthom brought up. Since you can program out the...

yes it does - what you say could explain a lot. can you suggest an alternative device that would do the job? Thanks for your reply.

I purchased a Honeywell ST9100S. A simple single day timer ideal to replace my old Switchmaster 805 programmer that recently packed up. The Switchmaster originally controlled the heating and water but was later changed to operate the hot water only, the central heating is now controlled by a...

OK D4n1el, hope I'm not breaking any copyright rules will add the pages, here are some comments about the building Have added details from article, you can print them out on A4, hope it will be readable. Will add a few notes on what I did. 1. Diagrams of each part I enlarged to A4 to...

Hi Footprints, I am under no illusions, although only 1 he is quite boisterous and I made some modifications because of that. No I did not design it, it was in a diy magazine and I liked it so much I kept the pages; that must have been 30 years or more ago. I don’t know who designed it nor...

OK, have uploaded a couple of images, hope you can see them as I dont really know how all this works. If you can see them you might notice that it is not really a Red Arrow at all, the propeller is a bit of a give away, however my 1yr old grandson will not know, providing you don't tell him...

Thanks for the responses, sorry for the delay, the job has taken a long time. I was unable to find the masking tape mentioned but bought a different sort from screwfix. If anything it was a higher tack than what I had. I sprayed the stripes with cellulose, there was no reaction. When I removed...

Thanks for you reply dcdec. The undercoat and red topcoat is complete and it looks great, having matched the Red Arrows colour, in oil based paint. All I need do now is the white sunburst which will be not much more than a series of stripes. Have uploaded an image to DRDR library for the type...

I am building a ‘Red Arrow’ sit in plane for my young grandson. It is made of plywood. I have painted it with 2 coats of acrylic undercoat and then a bright red Dulux oil based topcoat. It takes a long time to dry. I desperately want to get a super fine finish. I now want to paint a complex...