Recent content by dunc21

Well, that's that then - re-installed - NO leaks! Yippee :D Some learnt lessons then. 1) ensure the pan exhaust is in line with the stack connector - and at the correct angle. If too low, cut out a couple of base shapes from hardboard, with slots for where the screws go through. Use as...

Ok all - thanks. The last (and first) close-coupled wc I fitted a long time back I did follow the instructions 100% and did NOT use any compounds on the washers, but it DID leak. I was forced to take it apart three times. In the end I resorted to a sealant which did the job. Hence my...

ok - it seems clear then that nobody knows the answers to my conundram - or at least don't want to tell me. I left it a day wrapped in a rag to soak up the seepage, but I guess it's time to take it apart and have another go.

well Taydo, I guess it could, but again I did follow the installation instructions - Hand tight, then half a turn - it was quite tight. Again applied with Hylomar top and bottom. I was wondering if perhaps I put a spanner inside the cistern on the fitting bolts and tightened whilst holding...

Well - just spent the afternoon installing new close-coupled wc. After the advise here and a similar topic (see here ), I decided to use the Hylomar which I bought from a local car accessory/parts shop (Hylomar Blue). I used it as directed and assembled the cistern to the pan (bolt through...

From time to time when someone says "that'll be £nn, plus VAT" they mean they want you to pay the £nn - :wink: :wink: - if you want a receipt then you'll have to pay the VAT - which you must anyway of course. Do let us know the other quotes you get, and the final price, and how long it took.

Ok, I give up - picture not important anyway. Why can't we just copy and paste a bitmap?

oops try that again

Thanks Chris - foam it is then. I already have some that I didn't use on another project. The bit I was referring to is the gap between the end of the stack pipe to the plastic connector. I know the connector has a rubber flange which seals the pipe, but it still leaves a gap of about 3/4...

Well Heather - he has to remove all the old stuff (and dispose of?) as well as fit the new suite - which will probably not fit exactly where the old bits came out of which will need replumbing. Is the room already tiled? if so, will need removing - maybe he's tiling over the top. Floor needs...

Well I am not a plumber - just a DIYer - and have done just that more than once. To me it seems a reasonable quote - I think most of that will be for labour - it is quite time consuming. A lot depends on what tile/bath you have chosen too - basic, contemporary or ? Also depends upon...

Thanks for the replies. I have already bought an angled plastic connector/adaptor which I believe to be the correct angle - it was really just the finish I was asking about - whether to cement or plumbers mate, given that there will be a gap between the outside of the connector ant the metal...

Thanks BAHCO But I am working around existing decoration and fixtures - If I replace the stack, it will take a lot of work (It also passes through a flat roof, through boxing and through a floor of an outhouse), instead of the leasurely day (half day if lucky) I planned. I just want to...

My cast iron stack connection comes into the house at an upward angel - not horizontal and not vertical. Last time I installed the WC, I used an angled adapter and filled in around the adapter with quick drying cement - which was fine, except it cracked away from the adapter every so often -...

Ok thanks Shaggy. I am surprised this topic doesn't come up more often- I did a web search and could find nothing on it. I think i might use some plumbers mate now rather than my trusty silicon sealant, as I have to get the old one out and the new one in and usable within the day - otherwise...