Recent content by EdTurtle

Hi all, doing the stairwell wall - Celcon blocks- with sand and cement. I have done some floating before , mostly smaller walls though, and I have a few questions. I understand that the maximum thickness i should do each coat is 11mm - but door casings etc mean i will be looking closer to 20mm...

I have a few more questions if possible? If i do one coat at 8-10mm then the next at 8-10mm will that be ok? How long between coats - can i do one in the morning, one in the afternoon? Or, if i don't get round to it, one coat one day, and the top the next day - is better to leave less or more...

Thanks for that. I think the only bit that I'll struggle with is getting the backing flat - not enough room to get a featheredge in since its only patching. I can rule off the old wall for the top coat though, so hopefully that will make it flat.

Hi, I need to patch in some largeish areas on celcon blocks. The old browning had come loose in places, so has been removed back to the blocks. I cannot get hardwall here, and it has been said that bonding cant be used, so I'm doing it in sand and cement. I had hoped to clarify a few things...

Another quick question, once i've screwed the board to the wall, so its firm. Would it be a problem to squeeze some mortar down the back of the board? Reason being is the top of the wall will be sand and cement rendered, so it would be nice to have the render go down the back a bit as well, so...

Great thanks - although it will make it a bit more tricky to set the board in, as the lead will push the board out towards the front of the wall. Thanks

Thanks for that, makes sense about the foam pushing the board out, i hadn't considered that. So, what about the lead, should it be folded up, or down? Just been up to check, its proably more like 10mm at the most, and it does reduce to probably 5mm in places - it varies all over the place too-...

Hi, I have a block wall (thermalite) upstairs, the bottom half is plasterboard and the top is float and set, then the whole wall is skimmed. Not sure why they did it this way, its in a dormer - the bottom half backs on to the downstairs loft, and the top backs onto the outside. I am in the...

Excellent, thanks for the info and advice.

Yeah, i get all the extra stuff... I suppose my question could be worded better - Will the TRV valve screw into the radiator directly once i remove the tail extenders? Thanks, and i'm sorry if this is really obvious, i just dont want to be in a position of having the radiator off then...

Thanks all. This is what i am trying to do. So, what do i need to do then? Remove the extensions that are there, and then just screw the other part in, or do i need to get anything else to do the job? Thanks

Ah ok, so i am replacing the pipework coming out of the floor - not tails? So If i remove those extenders, i need to buy new (smaller) ones? Are there such things as variable ones, ie that slide in and out to change the length? Thanks

Hi all, I have a radiator with some less than ideal tails - as shown in the picture they are a bit green. I will be redoing these in chrome at some point, but i just need some help with the job. At the moment the radiator valves have extenders on them, presumably because the new rad was a bit...

Vinegar is best for this, just squirt on the cheapest vinegar you can find, but you have to do it on a dry day, ie when the weeds will want to take in water. The vinegar i get (tesco value) also has the squirty type opening, so easy to direct. I dont even pull the weeds out, but i do do the job...