Recent content by electrogear

Thanks for the reply. I was hoping this might be the answer. The soffit is already fitted and it’s just sealed against the brickwork/frame. I think to give me options I’m going to get a 50mm top frame extender too.

Hi, I’m currently replacing all of my windows (with BC sign off). So far all of my downstairs windows have had stone lintels on the inner leaf and angle iron on the outer leaf, but I’m now doing the landing and bathroom windows which go all the way up to ceiling height and I’ve found that these...

Yes I think that’s what Woody is getting at as well. You don’t necessarily have to have a small top opener to have extra ventilation options whilst not creating an easy way in for intruders.

No. He said if it distinctly fell under permitted development he could tell me to go ahead but as the render doesn’t match the original building’s fabrication then I should submit my rough plan for a yes/no answer (£60 fee) to the planning dept to see if they will allow it without a full...

Yes. IMO a full height side-opening window with a 10cm restrictor fitted should be just as good as a top opener and the frame design is less cluttered. Also new windows must have trickle vents so condensation shouldn’t be as much of an issue as it is at the moment with our 1980’s aluminium...

Do you mean a pane split into two with a quarter opener at the top? We don’t use the one in the living room but you’ve got a point about the bedroom ones.

Price is supply-only for Deceurninck frames and glass. I have a friend who’s Fensa registered who’s going to help so it shouldn’t cost too much more than the total price (except for cavity closers, sealant, shims and screws). With respect, I’ve fitted cedar cladding at the back already and I...

sorry, the bit about 25% of the wall area - are you talking about the glass? Doesn’t that only apply to extensions? If it applies to existing buildings for new openings, then where do they determine “wall area”? - of the whole house? All four walls of the room in which you’re putting a window...

I still have contact info for the last planning officer we used and he said if we need to run anything by him then we can so that will be my next step. I’m not looking to “hope for the best” or anything silly. I would like to add more thermal insulation anyway as I don’t think our existing...

Although the cedar cladding/render is obviously nothing like the 60’s cream brick we’re covering up, I’m hoping we can get away with it on the basis that it will match the cedar cladding right across the back of our house which we did with BC sign off 4 years ago. The new opening should be ok...

The Deceuninck frames I’m ordering automatically switch to toughened glass for panes 1890mm and above - not sure why! I know it’s <800mm from the floor they have to be toughened which is why I plan to make the new windows smaller in height (the existing one is 700mm from the floor). If I go for...

After much deliberation and assessment of the design and costs I think you are right! 4 panes increases the cost, as does adding more openers and top opening windows. The best balance of cost/design/functionality seems to be 3 panes with the left and right window opening, and no top-openers...

We’re going for flush casements (“in frame”). Each window is 2.4m wide so they are big windows. All of our neighbours who replaced their windows 1990-2010’s have gone with 3 panes but the ones in the last 5 years who’ve rendered have gone for 4 panes and it looks good IMO.

Haha. Nice design but so many issues with applying it to our bog standard house! Think this looks a little better…

Hi, I’m wanting to change the external appearance of my house as I don’t like the 1960’s cream bricks so I was hoping to render/cedar clad the front and add an additional window. I’m not in a conservation area and it’s not listed (no surprise there). Reading the guidance on my local authority...