Recent content by CaptainJack88

Thanks, looking at these though, you need a fairly chunky wall for the exchange to fit. I've got about 6" so looks like these might be too big

The back half of our tandem garage was converted to a room, that I use as my office/man cave. The issue is it's got no windows, only a set of french patio doors. Other than installing a window which only benefit would be to open for air, not light due to the only place it could go, does anyone...

That's not what I'm intending to do. I'm dropping the post behind the wall, and then going to fix through the wall in several places. Will probably use some sort of strap on the inside as well the spread the load The fence we were intending to build, is more screening to be honest. Hit and miss...

The fence is knackered. Half the posts need replacing and it wobbles all over the show

Completely different style of fence. Old one has also had it in places, but posts are on neighbouring side and they don't want to be ripping out all their plants and garden to replace it

I've got actual posts getting concreted in at either end of the wall. It's a slated fence, so wind can pass through it I'm putting a few in to spread the weight. Shouldn't be too much of an issue We asked them to put actual posts into the ground behind the wall when they built it, but then...

100mm.

The wall itself is 4m wide and only 60cm high, so the only concreted posts are going to be that far apart. The slatted panels are 3m wide. The fence is 2m high, so over the span of 4m, I need something that is going to take the flex of a 1.6m fence that'll have wind blowing against it. It's got...

I did have a look at plate nuts as well, but the only ones I could find were where the thread comes in from the front. None of the stainless steel ones I could find have a hole in the back for a thread to come through. Unless im looking at the wrong thing

I had considered this, but the wall is only 60cm tall and the fence post is 2m, and I can't get a hole in the ground, so the wall fixing needs to be really secure. Those T-nuts don't really spread the load enough. It's only treated pine, so they'll pull right through it

The best way to explain this is with a picture. We have an existing fence between the neighbors. We can't take it out and get access from their side, as they have lots of stuff in the way, and it'd mean dismantling a lot of their garden. No go. We had some builders in a while ago, and they...

Yea getting the olive off them is going to be the tricky part. Right now I've got 30-40mm sticking out the , but if I can't get the olive off and cut the pipe, I'm not left with enough pipe. Is it possible to remove the olive without damaging or cutting the pipe? Hacksaw on it and pilers to...

Makes sense, i'll grab some pictures when I'm back. In the mean time, I've ordered some of these that look to take the 1/2" to 3/4" in a straight line, so hopefully the shower bar will connect directly to these https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0B3WSTYLV?psc=1&smid=A1YX0FTXIRXMJU&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp

Thanks. I'm not sure those fixing kits would work, as the Z connectors increase in size from 15mm, to what looks like 22mm, although they are currently already at 150mm centers. Are these fixing kits available in a 15-22 female adapter? I wouldn't need the cover I dont think as it comes...

Our old shower mixer has started leaking, so purchased a new Grohe shower. To fix the mixer bar however, you're provided with the adapter below. Looking online, the instructions basically come down to "screwing it into the wall connector." The "issue" here though, is that my shower pipes are...