Recent content by Firkin

Have you tried silicon glue? Firkin

Good man Catlad and thank you very much for keeping me right on this.:D:D:D Regards Firkin(y)

Catlad, thanks for the reply. Ground floor is a garage/workshop and the roof space above it is large enough to be turned into a room of sorts for clean storage or parking the wife with her craft stuff. The underside of the joists will be 2 ply PB and the topside of the joists to be floored...

......If it was my house, I'd be asking the builder back round to take a look and see what he has to say about it. Keep in mind though that plaster can and does take a while to dry - that's why you should give it up to 6 months on new builds to allow the stuff to dry not just on the surface but...

Hello I am replacing the roof boarding (Sarking as we call it in Scotland) and replacing with engineered (T&G) OSB3. Do I need to use a breathable vapour barrier and if yes - does it go under or over the OSB? The covering will then be felted and slated. Much appreciate any help or advice on...

Ah c'mon you guys, BAS has helped a lot of folks out on these columns and so what if he gets up his own shirt sometimes - he is only trying to stop many of us burning our fingers - or worse! I welcome his argy bargy ways - it makes a lot os us stop and think if we are going about it the right...

Thanks for all the replies folks :D I've skimmed straight on to the board and so far it is sticking like glue :lol: Need to touch up a few bits here and there but overall I surprised myself :oops: Used way too much water and plaster mix for the area I wanted to cover which - I seem to...

Hi guys, wee while since I posted last :oops: 1. I'm preparing a room for plastering (Skim coat) and the room is already boarded out and taped at the joints. Do I need to use PVA or not? Reading through the posts here it seems there are two camps of opinion but none that seems definitive...

I have seen how you become a real engineer,as my brother is a real engineer and is soon hoping to impress enough to make nasa offer him a job,so next time your about to say engineer,just say heating fitter or plumber,i have been in this game for 16 years and im still just a heating...

Phenz, try CEF (City Electrical Factors) and see what they are charging for 10 mm cable they gave me a great price for what I needed (15 metres = £26:00) If nothing else, the cost cannot be balanced against personal safety - just buy the right size cable. 8) Firkin

John D - you have mail :D firkin 8)

John D - try now - I think I've sorted it :oops: firkin 8)

:D Good call RF but - its the 100/63 - I need the 100/80, great prices for the breakers though - have earmarked that page. will keep looking though - I may yet get a hager. John D = PMs? regards Firkin 8)

Guys - what can I say - you have done me well :D RF - I like these Hagers but - at £129:00 for the basic unit at trade prices -and then the cost of the MCBs on top of that - I hate to think what that little lot would cost me :shock: (very nice though :wink: ) I take your point as well about...

Thanks guys. :D Spark123 - I thought Volex were okay - are you getting mixed up with Wylex? I know from these boards that many don't seem to think too well of them - or is it me that's getting mixed up? :lol: Securespark - do you have a link for MEM - I can only find the metal ones so...