Recent content by GG1

Hello everyone, Could do with some advice please This is my current setup: Vaillant ecotec plus 637 system boiler Unistor unvented cylinder Vr66 wiring centre Vrc 470f S plan system Now I have just had underfloor heating installed and a HeatMiser UH8 wiring centre, a new motorised valve...

Forgot to add then marble 305 x 305 x 10 on top of the ply and will probably use ditra mat to avoid any cracking. Or any other options if anyone has a better solution?

The insulation will be fitted 20-25 mm below joist level, then install UFH to insulation via staples and removing notch from end of joists. Then biscuit screed on top of this to the top of the joist then 18 mm fitted on top of this, so no loss of height.

Forgot to mention that even if there was a hatch, those kneewalls are literally every meter, so I could only travel that distance, before I hit a dead end.

I have already spoken to my plumber about this and he seems to think it would work, but after some research it gave me doubts. Joists to oversite is 10 inches. No hatch, maybe due to such a low joist height?

Out of curiosity what is so unusual about 4" x 2" joists in a 1930's house, what is the usual or normal size joists associated with a building of this age?

Hello, thank you for your reply. I am planning to work on the dining room, living room, hallway and office. I decided on the above arrangement from previous jobs seen and described online. I will be having a plumber to install the wet UFH, but am looking to do the work myself to get to this...

Hello, I live in a 1930's house with a suspended wooden floor. The joist centers are around 360 mm. I say around as they vary slightly from joist to joist. The joists are 4" x 2" and currently have 22 mm floorboards. My plan is to remove the existing floorboards and put celotex insulation...