Recent content by Golde

The reason why I say about the white is because the new actuator once installed did nothing. put clock on to call for heat, cylinder cold so stat would be calling for heat and nothing happened, no energise of valve, no pump start up and no boiler fire up. Put old actuator back on and back to old...

ignore previous post. I do understand system. The problem with system is the pump runs and boiler fires up with the programmer turned off approx. every 10/15 mins. Potterton suggested tracing the two greys wires that I know are permanent live that are linked together. One for the zone valve for...

not being an electrician don't own a multi meter or would likley know how to use. If the system however does not falsely fire up with the grey wire from the hot water zone valve removed does this not point to valve as I'm only following what Potterton said? With the grey wire from hot water...

as previous post i simply placed electrical tape around the white wire and connected up the remaining 5 gre/ye, blue, brown, grey, orange as per actuator removed. When I powered back up and tested hot water it did not work, clock on no energize of valve, no pump running and no boiler fire up...

yes it is a honeywell valve. body does not need replacing as it is newer model that head can be changed without the need for drain down. it is only the wiring that i need to know specifically the white. thanks.

the reason for replacing. The pump/boiler keep firing up with the clock turned off (not calling for heat). Potterton who make boiler suggested that it may be the micro switch that is sending false signal. Suggestion was to remove grey wire one at a time as two zone valves on an unvented setup. I...

I need to replace the head on my honeywell 2 port zone valve for DHW. Old head has 5 wires new head has 6 (white being the difference). I wired up the five wires as per existing and placed electrical tape around the white as google searches indicate not needed in an 'S' plan. Tested and not...