Recent content by Grantx

Thank you for all replies, especially spacey3 - the much considered content is greatly appreciated. I do use French and Italian websites but not for building matters. For tools not known beyond its borders, the US is good for high quality, price and originality; as are Germany and Italy but...

If corruption, cronyism and narrow self-interest were eliminated, aid wouldn't be needed. Then again, how would our government maintain its foreign interests?

One of my interests is grammar, specifically, English and Latin. As a bricklayer this has proved useful. I have a Latin dictionary dated 1797 that belonged to (in his own hand) a "Captain N. Surtees Commander in Chief of his Majestyes Forces at 5/97" who lived at "Redwich(?) Hall Mitton(?) le...

Andy, what determined the use of a piles as opposed to the standard strip or raft foundation? Is it where the ground is very soft and an alternative to a very deep strip foundation, for example? Your block work is perfect.

Your third eye is obviously better than mine.

You can see under the floor. Then the airbricks are doing precisely what they were designed to do: introduce airflow under the floor, albeit in the cellar. You need to establish the extent of the cracks; not just the actual what-you-can-see, but what you can't. Tap the rendering near the cracks...

You need a lintel over that opening otherwise that prop will have to remain forever. There's no support for the the brick/block above. And judging by the look of the existing brickwork, its continued existence is in question.

With 90% certainty, I would say that is the interior of plaster board - the filling between the paper .

From experience, your dates are out.

When was this former practice?

You are wrong. Air-bricks are used direct airflow/ ventilation to a suspended floor, not to a cavity.

Air-grids sit on the dpc level. The top of the air-grid is your floor level. Both have be almost completely breached by the new paving. You have no protection against damp and thus, a damp problem. You should check the ends of your floor joists also for water damage or rot.

Put a well insulated stud wall on the inside. Very cheap and effective.

Use fixing anchors for plaster boards. Enter that into B&Q, for example, and they'll come up. And they are cheap by the bag full.

Sounds like you've got solid walls, ie. no cavity (not unusual given the age). Unless the wall is constructed in rat-trap bond (don't ask - life is too short). To expand on 23vc's point, use an angle grinder to cut out the channel. Going hell for leather with a lump hammer and chisel could...