Recent content by iangh

Staying Alive?

in the 60s and early 70s? Usually says on it in letters, printed on. But the big clue is - one header and feeder tank, often in the airing cupboard above the HWC, to save effort etc. I boiled one once , with a solid fuel boiler, the bubbling was weird, and the water hot?

I am not an expert, but did a number of torch-on roofs for my extensions some (20)years ago. These have lasted over 20 years, so must be good. I used three layers of QUALITY felt, with the base a perforated layer, no nails , nowhere. Use plenty of lamp to get the melt flowing to stick the base...

Why bother fitting an expensive window in such a location? just wondered?

Surely the housing environment is poor. If a tightly insulated ,modern house is expected not to have cndensation, where is the steam and vapour expected to go? Has it mechanical ventilation system- preferable heat recovery? Ask the Housing Association to ask their architects about this, not you...

I built car port 12 years ago at my house ( still ok) I used 2x4 for rafters sawn , this is 12ft wide. Also 2x2 cross supports lenghtways I used brick pillers to match house, on a concrete base, 1 brick square. The car port is 12 foot by around 25 foot. It is roofed by 12 foot pvc corrugated...

it's always been ballast in Leicester where I come from!

with all chimneys the issue is what are they holding up, or what is holding them up. In the latter you cab easily take down a stack from the top. But taking it down from the bottom needs building control approval as they are structurally part of a building, also of course in a semi will affect...

What you propose is a separate hereditament, you will be Council taxed on it for sure, if planners allow. In my area they would call it 'tandem development ' and chuck it in the bin. all assuming it is not a shed that you are needing

saves having an alarm clock? many systems make a noise, perhaps not like yours, due to the fitting of pipes in tight gaps in joists etc. as you know, all metal expands on being heated, so you need to allow for that expansion. The pipes and rads must have space to move. Have you tried turn...

a concrete lintol would be the cheap option that most would follow, bearing 6" on either side ? the metal ones look a bit fancy

Build a buttress? or two But at 6' is a potentially dangerous bit of kit, one good wind and wham. needs a specialist to check really - sorry

is the chimney used?, what sort of fire? lost of sand?, how much, as is it affecting structural stability of the chimney? rumbling sounds like a liner in there and th ewind catching it and bashing it against the damp parging of the chimney. How old the house?

for a start you need drainage to take surplus water away to a lower point- dig trenches add drainage pipes gravel does sink in, I have a whole front area that needs redressing every 5 or so years. It will stop eventually. Otherwise you need to have a proper base layer of rubble compacted ...

over 30 sq metres needs the planners for a 'car' port ( open two sides) 24 foot span is huge , you will need incredible support for that, u needs a structural engineer to prevent danger to all and sundry, especially your car