Recent content by IggyT

I fitted the Shelly 1 mini gen3. Quite simple to fit, black wires stay in the switch. Both blues go into N and brown in to L and brown out to O and a jumper connecting L and I. The Shelly app has a lot of configuration options, but for settings up an off and on at set times is easy.

The extractor fan is quite loud in the room above at night and the fan is in the shower closet, which looks very difficult to replace with a silent one. I don’t need “bonkers” levels of automation, just simply turn it off between the hours of x x. The Shelly 1, does this for £17, so not too bad...

It’s an extractor fan switch on the front, with no wires the back has the attached picture. I now understand this is an extractor fan switch with overrun. I have ordered a Shelly 1 Mini gen3 to wire in the back box.

Looking online, it is suggesting I need a no-neutral smart switch.

I purchased a timer switch. It has live IN and OUT and neutral IN and OUT and an earth terminal. The issue I have is I have 2 live, 2 neutral, 2 earths and then 2 black wires. What do I do with the 2 black wires. The current extractor spur switch has brown to L1 COM, black to L2 and blue to N...

I have a standard spur fuse switch controlling an extractor fan, but I don’t won’t the fan to activate between 20:00 and 09:00. Can I replace the switch with a timer switch? How do you wire the 6 cables into 4 points on the timer switch? Cheers Iggy

The engineer has removed the old Vaillant thermostat receiver from the front of the boiler, which seems to have fixed it. I'm sure I tried that myself and didn't see the boiler go over 50, but maybe I wasn't patient enough. The rads are nice and hot now and I've got over 18 degrees in the house...

another engineer is due today. Looking at the last report, the pcb was changed and it made no difference, so the engineer took it back out again.

The hive has live-live, neutral-neutral and the control wire to the 230v RT. All on the right hand side of the pcb.

I’ve been experimenting with the Vaillant thermostat and it only makes the boiler go over 50, if I set the temperature to 24 or above (which is the same temp as the hive gives when you press the boost button, except nothing happens with the hive). Otherwise it just heats at 50. I was always told...

I disconnected the hive unit from the boiler. Put the jumper back in on the 24v RT and put batteries in my old Vaillant wireless controller and bingo, the boiler is now firing nice and strong and reading 68 degrees on the front panel. So, is there something else you need to do on the hive wiring?

The boiler keeps firing lightly at 50 until the thermostat temp is reached, which is never, because the thermostat is at 20 and the house is not getting past 17.8 due to the rads not getting hot enough.

I've got trv's on all rads bar one. I will start taking them off. One thing I have noticed, is a few rads seem to have the flow around the wrong way, e.g., the pipe with the lock shield on the left hand side of the rad is warming up first. So, in effect, my lock shield is my trv, which is confusing.

My HW is fine, nice and hot and steady. The CH is fine, but the boiler is only heating to 49/50 degrees, which makes the rads only slightly warm. I have had 3 heating engineers round from British Gas. New main pcb. New pump. Each time they have left and said to my Wife, “it’s fixed”. When I come...

Thanks for the advise. I will take the programmer cover off and see what it is controlling.