Recent content by jamesab

Thanks for your replies. I ended up unscrewing the keep plate and flipping it round so that the wider piece of metal was toward the outside. That seems to have done the trick! Cheers

Hi, I was hoping this would be simple to address but I've tried adjusting everything without success. I have a 5mm ish gap at the top middle of my French doors creating an uncomfortable draft. I've read other threads that suggest toe & heeling but that's not the issue here - the doors aren't...

I figured out that the thermostat was set to 'combi' instead of 'system', so I've changed it and that's done the trick! I'm absolutely chuffed to bits. There's absolutely no way I'd have figured this out on my own, so I'm very grateful for your assistance. Attached some pics of the finished...

I saw your edit after I wired everything up, but fortunately, everything seems to be working as it should - result! I do have one issue however, I can't see where I control the timing for the HW... how do I control that with my boiler? EDIT: Pin 3 on the old programmer is currently on its own...

Thank you. I've just confirmed with testing that the other 2 wires from the stat are as per your schematic. So if I'm understanding this correctly: Pull L from 10 Pull N from 3 3 wiring centre - 3 Heatlink 2 wiring centre - 6 Heatlink Black from 3 & red from 6 as 12v power source. Thanks...

Looks about right to me - I do have continuity between pin '1' on the thermostat and pin '4' on the programmer - but can't understand why there would be 2 separate red wires to the same terminals? Only question now would be how would you go about wiring the stat? Would I need to connect the...

Just had a look at the wiring - you're bang on with all of your guesses! Not sure whether it's helpful but I've attached another image of the wiring so it's a bit clearer. Edit: just noticed I'm having the same issue re photos, will try again later.

Thanks both. The amount of wires are indeed what caused me the most confusion - albeit there is a fused spur that isolates both the boiler and the programmer, so I'm not sure whether that accounts for them? I'd have to do some testing. The reason we went with nest was solely the price (next to...

Hi, Apologies for yet another Nest installation post! Just purchased a 3rd gen to go with our new boiler (Valliant ecofit sustain) and wondering whether installing it is a DIY job? I'm fairly competent with basic electrical work but could do with a bit of help with this one, I'm a bit...

It's def not the levels, I've tried with 2 with the same outcome. I've attached an image below of what I'm faced with! Cheers

Hi, I'm planning a media wall build, but the wall I want it on is massively out of plumb - what's the best way to deal with this considering the cls will need to be secured to it? I planned for the back of the tv/shelving to be the original wall to save plastering, but from top to bottom, it's...

Thanks so much. Seems like a sensible idea to go with a new boiler!

Hi, I have a Suprima that has served us well for 20+ years. It recently developed a fault where it would end up in a constant restart loop. Still worked just enough to provide hot water/CH. Had engineer out who diagnosed the problem as a corroded flue pipe and has performed a temporary fix and...

Hi folks, I've ran in to a bit of an issue with my exterior soil pipe. I've had to remove the old one as we're having porcelain tiles and as such, the manhole and soil pipe (for the kitchen waste) needs to be raised. My plan was to just buy a longer length of soil pipe, but the old one seems...

Thanks for your reply. The only thing I'm concerned about is a batten wider at the top might accentuate the fact that it's not level, but I suppose my only other option is to cut it the same width top and bottom (which leaves me with a 45mm ish gap to the window in parts) and then use some kind...