Recent content by jammiedog

just cracked the bleed nipple in the 15 mm pipe so cant try anything else until tom but thank you all very much.

this sounds like a good idea however I do not know what position the lever should be in, I have just moved it from one side to the other and then the middle and did not know what for.

when i do that with the towels the water howls out, which means i have to empty the system down to undo nut.

apart from at the top of the 2 x 15 mm copper pipe is there a way to bleed the cylinder?

ok, i will try and find air block. i understand the new valve does need replacing it was a needs must situation, however the ch is working fine, it is the hw that is not.

i do apologise, the pipe on top of the cylinder without the valve comes from the 3 way valve and gets hot, the other one with the valve goes through the floor.

it is too dark to take a pic, but the pipes are as described in previous post.

the pipes go across then down through the floor, though they both have bleed caps which have been bled. will try abd get pic.

no, i had lost hw before changing valve, and valve was faulty but doesnt seem to have fixed problem

your asking the wrong bloke! I have not altered anything except leaky valve on cylinder. I know it is a washing machine valve but as the water leaked through my floor I changed it immediately, the only spare I had was that one. I will change it back once sort the hot water problem out.

i tried to upload some pics of my 3 way valve but I just cannot figure that out yet. Will keep trying. Thanks for all the assistance so far, it is really good.

sorry, will get pic tom. Thank you very much for your thoughts on this so far.

No, but I will take one. give me half an hour.

There are operational pipes half way up, three are two capped off holes. The only pipes are at the top two 15 mm copper pipes and what looks linch inch lead pipe. There appears to be lead inlet pipe at the bottom also.