Recent content by jasonfrog

Some further info about the AAV, just in case it matters. It only leaks when the boiler is in use and for a short while after the boiler has been used. It stops leaking after maybe 40 minutes to an hour or so. It's a slow leak. Any advice on clearly air out of the boiler? In case it is...

I have a Worcester Bosch 28CDi combi that seems to have developed a fault. With the hot tap running (and the central heating off) the boiler will provide hot water for around 30 seconds, after which the pressure gauge needle will wobble around slightly for around 10-20 seconds, at which point...

Ah the other forums :) I have just concluded my threads there by referring to this thread. This is the only forum that provided me with a super helpful solution. Thanks once again! :)

:D :D :D Result! A fully working set of doors, Hurray! I'm delighted. Thank you for the detail explanation. It all makes sense now. Massive thanks to you ColJack, and to tomathy too. I'm really very happy. DIYnot delivers once again. Cheers! I owe you one. ;)

My diagram isn't the best, but I've just doubled checked number 7, and I haven't missed anything out. Maybe it's because my diagram isn't very clear. Number 7 is linked to 1B and the lower right terminal on RL3. There definitely isn't a keyswitch outside of the bus, perhaps because...

Thank you very much :D I'll be giving it a go in the morning, and will report back. I really appreciate your time and help. Is it essential to the circuit that I get power to number 7? Additionally I forgot to mentioned that I traced back the +24v volt line, that goes into number 11...

I am rebuilding the passenger door mechanism on a Mercedes 609D bus. I have rebuilt the door rams and motor, which work fine. If directly hook up the 24v motor then it turns one way and the doors open. If I then switch the polarity, then the motor turns the other way and the doors close...

Alan, many thanks for that offer of a replacement PCB to try. I managed to get hold of another PCB from another local source. The replacement part was tested and should worked. So I took out the old PCB and installed the other one. Switched the C/H on and it fired up for about 2 minutes...

just tried your suggestion. it caused the APS to click and the boiler to fire up, the fan however remains off. Pipes are clear. The problem is that that the fan still immediately clicks on and off when the c/h is switched on. (Fan works no problem with h/w)

ok, i'll give that a go. again just to be sure.. is it the red pipe or the white one that i remove? and do i remove it from the aps or the burner?

Made the swap, same problem, so it's not the sensors. Checked the harness and it's definitely seated in tight. I don't have a room stat, which means I do have a link between Ls and Lr.. which seems to be in place ok. I've got a digital timer, which seems to work ok. I removed it anyway so that...

hah, sorry for my misunderstanding. ok yeh i got you now. yes, the h/w sensor is mounted on a screw clip and the c/h sensor is on a spring clip. i've removed them both and have swapped the leads. should i remount them now? (i.e. take the h/w sensor out of the screw clip and put it in...

ok, just tried doing that. i disconnected the leads from c/h sensor and the h/w sensor and then attempted to swap them over. unfortunately they are not long enough and don't reach. so i reconnected them as they were and closed everything back up. i tried the c/h again... and it came on...

i've located the c/h sensor (to the left of the combustion chamber, yeh?) and i've got a multi-meter .. how should i check it?

like alan above says, I thought that it won't be the APS as the boiler fires up and provides hot water/DHW. (edit: Many thanks for the quick responses :) )