Recent content by Jay88

Yes, you dont need to remove the actuators fully because there a pain to get back on just slacken the silver nut at the bottom enough to let the pin up. The grundfos 25-40/60 is the one that has come on all the other ones i have done just double check dimensions of pump but should go straight...

Is that the cabinet in the picture? If so then i would of thort a grundfos would fit there! As i say never had any problems with the grundys and it is a bigger bore pump which i would of thort should sort your problem, ive used them on 5-6 bedroom houses with about 12 zones and once air is out...

Pretty sure no AAV on these manifolds manual bleed only, as i said thats the quickest way to get rid of air on any manifold, they are dog ****

Get rid of the cylinder and put a thermal store in, 3 lots of open tappings! 2 x 28mm for boiler stove(could be 1”1/4 if the stove is 30kw) 2 for oil boiler and 2 for heating circuit,plus a hot water coil then you can have mains pressure hot water. i wouldnt put a zonevalve on the downstairs...

Firstly make sure you have definitely got all the air out of the loops, this makes a massive difference on flow, do this by shutting main flow and return valves, shut all flow gauges and loosen actuators off so all zones are effectively open. Attach mains pressure hose to the drain cock on the...

Very possible will only leak when cold, as when heating is on everything will expand causing the leak to seal, let the system cool down and check for leaks, draincocks can be a pain in the arse! Just as easy to replace sometimes then mess around with as the rubbers perish