Recent content by JayS

A 620mm will do nicely. I bought the units from IKEA and the worktop else where, no problem. 8)

Yes, you were able to start work before 1st of January 2005 and finish it before the 1st of April without having to bother with part P...but if it's not finished yet then it falls under part P... ban-all-sheds, any circuits going into a kitchen would also be effected (as well as being...

rglister's title says oven...topic says cooker... If it's a built in oven consider the following. What's the rating of the oven? If it's less then 3kW it'll do nicely in a 13A socket. :) Assuming this is the case and that you are running a spur off the ring main I think a 13A FCU is to be...

Thanks Thermo! :) I didn't say it necessarily has to be due to a failed DPC. Bridging due alterations, etc. done over the years is probably more likely I think. No?

Ehh, I'm not arguing with anything you're saying Softus...I will now though...this is pretty basic physics... Bricks are made of a porous material so you will get a capillary action in in them. A brick is pretty much the same as a sponge (except harder). Leave a brick in a bucket of water for...

Sounds like a Topp shop to me then! ;):roll: Sorry for being cynical...I just don't understand why people think putting up tiles make a room waterproof...

Which means there will be capillary forces working within them... I fact the smaller the pores are the higher the water will rise. That would imply that water would rise higher within a brick then within mortar... Here it is all explained... "Capillary forces can be illustrated by a...

I smell sarcasm! ;)

You need to tank the wall...how many times has this question been answered now?? I do not understand how whoever did the original tiling can look himself in the mirror and call himself a professional tiler! :roll: You can use BAL's WP1 system for example. More info here. :)

Yes, you need to have an ait gap between the insulation and the tiles. 50mm I belive the regulations state. If you don't have it you will get problems with damp...

Brilliant! :D:lol: Made me laugh, in a sad kind of way though...pretty dangerous... :cry:

Since you want to fit TRV's I think you're only option really is to drain the whole system. Sorry...

Many thanks for the input. I think I'll go with the BAL system since this is only for my shower at home, so it won't be as busy as a commercial facility. :)

Thanks Mudster, that was pretty much my understading from reading the recommondations from BAL in their fixing guide. :) Ehhh.... Have you read this thread jbonding? It basically says do not use PVA...

They're screw caps. So either a very large Allen key or a pair of pliers.